Fah lah lah lah lah...

I’m happy to report that I’ve joined the Bangkok Music Society’s Choir! I just felt quite sad that music has once again, left my life…so I decided to do something about it! I had such a great time singing with the UW summer chorale this year that I just had to keep myself connected (thanks for a fabulous summer, Jason!). For some reason, I couldn’t find any information on the choirs at Chula, so I looked for choirs in BKK and found the Bangkok Music Society. I figured it would be a fabulous way to meet new people and get in touch with the opera going crowd here in BKK -- which reminds me, I went to see an opera called “Ayodhya” last Sunday. Given my fabulous experiences with the magnificent productions that Seattle Opera puts on, I am sad to report that I was thoroughly unimpressed with the production. Ayodhya is an all-new and original opera that was composed by a Thai composer and aside from one beautifully sung aria, the rest of was quite forgettable. When I originally decided to go see it, I had hoped it would be more Thai in nature; I was shocked to find that the libretto was written and therefore sung in English and that the music was for an orchestra featuring mainly Western instruments. Oh well.


Anyway, as for the BMS, we have our first concert on December 1st. I’m quite nervous about it since I’ve been singing with them for less than a month and already I have to be in a concert! Still, most of the stuff is fairly simple and straightforward and some of it, I’ve seen before! There’s not much to report here except that we only get together once a week for two hours, which is hardly enough rehearsal time, I think, but a majority of the people in the choir have normal day jobs and families that keep them too busy to commit much more time than we have.

ลอยกระทง, or Loi Krathong -- The Festival of Lights

I am fortunate enough to have been able to take part in this annual celebration! Loy Krathong is celebrated on a date that changes according to the Lunar Calendar – it usually falls in November (the 12th month) and is always on the night of the full moon in said month.

Looking at the picture above, you can see that “Loy” roughly means, “to float” and “Krathong” (pronounced ka-tong, with a long O) is a small raft that was traditionally made out of a section of banana tree trunk that is beautifully wrapped and lined with intricately folded banana leaves.

These days, however, you don’t have to look very far to see the cheaply and hastily made modern variety styrofoam krathong. Nevermind the fact the you’re going to set them adrift on the Chao Phraya and therefore release this non-biodegradable substance into the already over-polluted main artery of Bangkok’s waterways. I, however, am happy to report that the one I purchased was made entirely of natural materials that will eventually make their ways back into the circle of life…[sigh] I digress…

The pier was full of merchants busy making krathongs. On the left is an example of the styrofoam variety. The lady [?] in the center waves hello ~

This swanky watercraft, which varies from about a hand-span in diameter to as large as four to five feet across, is often decorated with a variety of flowers, candles and incense sticks. Here are some of the more creative ones I ran across:

This is a picture of my friend Jay and I, trying to keep our krathongs lit while battling the winds on the fast-moving Chao Phraya River's surface. Legend says that you will get whatever you ask for if your krathong stays lit until it is out of your sight. No, you can't just close your eyes!

Even the monks are busy at work with their EDIBLE krathongs!


So in addition to the floating of Krathongs, there are also fireworks and beauty contests. I didn’t see any beauty contests, but I did see plenty of fireworks and a lively night fair at Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). Here are some pictures for your visual pleasure:


And just because so many of you commented on the Thai architecture I included in an earlier post, here are some close shots of other buildings on the temple grounds that will wow you:


Here are some shots that I feel merit some commentary:

I thought we were in Thailand. No, really. I was surprised to find out that the entire temple is covered in Chinese ceramic. From afar, it looked like the building was made entirely of some kind of stone! Aren't these sculptures exquisite?

Here's an image in color!


So, according to Buddhist tradition, you may earn "merit" by purchasing and affixing gold leaf to Buddha images -- or, you could just give money to the temple and monk community -- the earthly servants of Buddha.


I don't think the guy in green appreciated my capturing on film, this most private of religious moments where you receive the blessings of Buddha's earthly representatives...sorry!


This was definitely put into place for the tourists, no Thai would be caught dead doing something so heinous!


Still, sometimes, holiness gives way to expediency...


Ouch! I wonder what happened here...


In terms of the history behind Loy Krathong...well, we think that it has its roots, like many Thai cultural and linguistic traditions, in India. Loy Krathong has been likened unto the Hindu Divali festival. Who uses that phrase anymore, anyway, "likened unto..." ? Still, it has a certain catchiness to it, non?

Also, I should say that the festival itself and the floating of the krathongs are not just for the sake of fun –- I mentioned above that Thailand celebrates Loy Krathong in the last month of the Lunar calendar. This happens to coincide with the beginning of the dry season AND the harvest. Thus, it is also a celebration of thanksgiving. However, like so many other adopted customs, the people here have made the tradition uniquely Thai by giving it a song as well as a time-honored anecdote explaining its origins that was enshrined within the country’s folklore when it was written down by His Majesty King Rama IV. Also, the Thais have dedicated the festival to Buddha, as opposed to the Hindu gods. As a good student of history, I feel obliged to cite my source for this information – so, thank you, Wikipedia =). If for some reason you want to know the song and the story…”Google it,” as I always say ~

One final thing I should note in terms of the special meaning accorded to the krathongs, courtesy, again, of Wikipedia:

“The act of floating away the candle raft is symbolic of letting go of all one's grudges, anger and defilements, so that one can start life afresh on a better foot. In the olden days, Thai people used to cut their fingernails and hair, floating away the clippings on the raft too, as a symbol of the bad parts of oneself one was letting go of. Many Thai believe that floating a krathong will create good luck, and they do it to honor and thank the Goddess of Water, Phra Mae Khongkha (see the connection with the harvest and change of seasons...?)”

What did I let go of, you ask? WELL, I shall have to politely say, as the Thais do, mai pen rai (never you mind).

ELLE Bangkok Fashion Week 2006

Tonight I went to one of the one of the shows spotlighting work by the designers of the clothing line Headquarter. It was part of a 6 day, 18 show event that featured the creations of some of Thailand’s hottest young designers. Like everything that attracts a crowd, the event was jam packed, though not as bad as other places that I’ve been to in BKK since admission is exclusively by invitation only.

How did I get an invitation you ask? Well, it’s all about who you know! I ran into some Thais that I had met by introduction through other friends. They were quite impressed that in my short three weeks here, that I wound up getting invited to an event like ELLE Bangkok Fashion Week 2006.

Actually, I was the guest of a one Blue Satittammanoon, who works for Sony Thailand – Artist & Repertoire Executive. I’m not quite sure what he does exactly, but he’s a friend of a friend in Seattle and has lived in NY, SF and Vancouver. So he’s quite the international guy and quite well connected to all the hottest events in BKK. All of the shows took place at Central World Plaza, just one Sky Train stop from the one I usually use. Here are a couple pictures for your enjoyment:


View of Ratchaprasong Road from the Grand Hyatt Erawan, kitty-corner from Central World Plaza and home to one of the most revered Hindu shrines in all of BKK. I shall have to dedicate a separate entry to it another time.


A view of the plaza outside of Central World Plaza when it is not full of people and stages like it was tonight.

Anyway, there were models, producers, television and movie stars walking around all over the place! Funny enough, they look very much like normal people in real life…and much smaller in person too! If anything, I saw going to this event (aside from being a blast) as an exercise in networking and getting introduced to people who are part of the BKK hi-so (high society). I’m hoping that some of these younger individuals will lead to an introduction to their parents, aunts, uncles, cousins, etc. who are the executives for some of Thailand’s leading companies.

BKK society is a network of relationships that can be navigated, but are monitored by various “gates” you have to gain access to. The only way to get through these gates is to be the guest of somebody who already has access. I imagine this is very similar to the business world back home, but it seems that Thais are really very willing to introduce you to just about anybody you ask to be introduced to. I’m just doing my best to meet as many people as I can so I can tell them what I’m doing in Thailand. They always ask me anyway, after the question I hear most often: “Where are you from?” I’m always quick to ask them all about what they do and what their background is. When I tell them I’m from the States, they always say oh! I lived in…and then they proceed to name a variety of cities in the US and oftentimes, which American University they attended. One pattern that I’m seeing in all the young, up and comings in BKK is that they’re all Western educated individuals and often times, of mixed heritage as well. One of Blue’s friends, Irene, is half-Swedish and half-Thai. She has lived in Stockholm for about as long as she’s lived in Thailand. So when I asked her where “home” is, she had a bit of a hard time deciding which one felt more like home. Although she did say that she didn’t want to be in Sweden at the moment.

After the show, there was an “After Party.” Those of you who know me best know that I’m not much of a drinker and I don’t smoke, so I was quite ready to leave after the show. However, to have done so would have been counterproductive to the whole point of going. The show was the objective, yes, but the important part is to see and be seen. Anyway, I could never understand how everyone can just hang around forever until tonight. After being offered a drink for the fifth time, I finally relented and said ok. My choices were a Heineken or blended Kahlua; neither of which sounded very good and the fact that I’m not really a big fan of beer made me accept the Heineken with a little bit of reservation. I could do this, I thought. Gulp. Yeah, that’s not so bad, I could probably learn to like beer, seeing as how food and alcohol seems to be the common denominator in all social gatherings I’ve been invited to so far.

And then the buzz hit. All of a sudden, my desire to leave was but a distant memory. Yes, I’m quite the lightweight – I wasn’t even half finished with my first bottle! Anyway, the point is that all of sudden, it hit me how everyone just sort of sits or stands around – they’re all buzzed! I came out pretty proud that I was able to finish my first bottle of beer but declined to join Blue and some of his friends when they decided they weren’t done partying yet (it was close to 1am) and were going to head off to Silom, so I bade them goodnight and headed home ~

Fright-Fest, Bangkok Style

So, I’m not sure how many of you know about my abiding love for Halloween. Those of you who ARE in the know probably chanced upon that knowledge by seeing me in one of my “legendary” Halloween outfits. Also, if you hang around me enough, particularly if we happen to be shopping or walking by department store windows, you’ll have heard me lament as to the sad state of affairs in terms of American men’s fashion. I mean, WHY did the state of men’s fashion devolve from the splendor of Louis XIV to what it is today? I think it had something to do with those English Puritans!! Are there any social historians in the house? I once wrote a paper on Victorian fashion and another on sumptuary laws with a particular focus on fashion. They were quite fun to research! Anyway, I digress……this entry is about BKK Halloweens, not my angst about the state of men’s fashion in the US. Before we move on though, I have to say that you be expecting to read a piece of men’s fashion in BKK in the future and how I’ve been very, very good about not going out and blowing an entire month’s stipend on the excellent and unique array of new threads to floss ~ translation: …not going out and spending all the money set aside for my monthly living expenses on new clothes to wear. Ah, I bet you’re thinking…only Hong could combine all of those words into one sentence with a straight face…I know, I know, you’re all missing me terribly right about now.

Long story short: I love Halloween, because I can be feathered, powdered, trussed, penciled, inked, painted, wrapped and be gawked at as I walk down the street and still feel absolutely fabulous! In fact, the more stares I get, the more successful I feel that I had been in creating that year’s costume. The other thing is…mind you, that Halloween is the only time of year that I do such things ~ Here are a couple of photos from last year’s costume:


Pictured on either side of me are my good friends and still-roommates-in-spirit Hilary Jane Case as Groucho Marx and Michael Vincent Mills-Santos as Yoko Ono – aren’t they fabulous?


This is a better view of the full outfit. If you're having a hard time guessing what I'm supposed to be, let me help you out -- I'm a phoenix!

One thing I do have to note is that I was very much caught by surprise at just how big of a deal Halloween is here in the City of Angels (not LA, mind you). Here’s why, according to a tourist website (they describe it so excitedly, I wonder if I can be a travel writer…and what the heck does pedestrianised mean, anyway??):

Halloween welcomes a street party in Bangkok's trendy pedestrianised bar strip - Silom Soi 4 - where the many bars, clubs and restaurants combine themed decorations and promotions. Thais love to celebrate holidays so much that they adopt western festivals like Halloween with gusto, even using the contraction "ween" as slang for scary. Many venues around town have themed parties on this night, but the most spontaneous and reliably fun are in this regular nightlife haunt. Many people come in costume, some outrageously dressed, and the elaborate decorations cover nearly every available space.


Still the place to go in Bangkok for the coolest vibes and the hippest people, Silom Soi 4 is actually a lane lined with unpretenious bars and clubs. Importing the best offerings from abroad, and sometimes their DJs too, Soi 4 sneaks a few local hits into the mix.

The clubs come and go and are mostly small enough to retain a sense of intimacy, with the chance to meet trend-setting Thais and party-crazed expats. There are some larger, see-and-be-seen clubs, often full of the wealthy and beautiful set, those seeking upward social mobility or just serious raving.


You don't need to go a full moon party to check out the Thai spin on clubbing and Soi 4 is as good an introduction to the vibrant Bangkok scene as you're likely to find.

Silom is one of the main thoroughfares in Bangkok, now serviced by the new skytrain (above the road). The sois (lanes) branch off Silom, odd numbers one side and even the other.

**********

At any rate, I give my honest opinion in stating that – Halloween and nightlife in Seattle REALLY SUCKS in comparison to BKK – and this is coming from somebody who gets tired at 9:30pm!! Soi 4 (soi is the Thai word for a side street branching off from an arterial. I think it’s ingenious because as long as you know the main streets, you will always know which part of town you’re talking about. Some sois pretty much comprise their own little neighborhoods, each with unique identities and flare), as our snazzy description above was able to encapsulate, is a bustling center of nightlife in the Silom area. It is literally a “red light” district of BKK – this area because of all signs and lights hanging over the soi. Now, I know that you’re thinking that it sounds like I go to these types of places a lot, but I really don’t. It’s just that BKK is full of them! Here are some photos that might help you understand what I mean:






Ah, Bangkok…

Apparently, Librarians Are the Same Everywhere

I made my first venture into the Chula Central Library today. It was a little bit of an experience seeing as how everything was in Thai (it’s not like I’m in Thailand or anything…) and I have yet to start taking my Thai lessons, which probably won’t even touch reading and writing for some time.

Luckily, they have computers featuring something resembling the Lemieux Library’s WebCat at Seattle U. I tried desperately to find an English language version of the program and was finally able to find one. All I had in hand was my little pink ID card from the International Affairs Office (IAO) when I went to visit them yesterday. Apparently, you have to get a membership to the library as well. And pay more fees. Why can’t they just have one card that gets you everything on campus? And why does everything come with its own separate price tag?

Anyway, I finally broke down and walked up to what must have been the circulation desk and started the routine – Hi, I’m a new researcher here…hand goes up to signify that I should stop talking and wait. The lady behind the counter dashes off with a smile and brings back one of her colleagues, who I’m quite relieved to find, speaks English quite well.

I explain to her that I’m a new researcher and that I don’t quite know how the library works.

Ok, I’ll give you an introduction.

She hands me a brochure for the library and takes me to the computers and shows me that with a touch of a button, I can change the language setting on the search engine.

Now how come I didn’t see THAT just a second ago? I thought to myself.

I asked her what I needed to do to check out materials.

Well, you have to apply for a membership.

How do I do that?

We walk over to the circulation desk and she works her magic in Thai. One of the gentlemen walks over to a side table and pulls up a few pieces of paper. Attached to these papers is a copy of on my photos that dropped off at the IAO last week. Amazing, they actually WORK with each other?? Apparently, they had JUST gotten the paperwork that very day. They tell me that I could come back tomorrow for it. And no fees. Weird, I thought. Some people tell me there are fees. Others say nevermind. It seems to me that fees are there and once it’s clear that you’re a Fulbright and fit into some kind of special group of people, all fees are waived. I kinda like that. But I’m a little annoyed as well, because I keep worrying that all these fees will eat away at the set amount of money I’ve been awarded for what really matters – boozing! Uh, I mean studying, um, researching, yes…~

So I fill out some more paperwork and hang it off with a smile, despite being somewhat bewildered at this point, since I just filled out an application that was entirely in Thai. Luckily, my translator made some markings to indicate what goes where. Sigh.

I walk over to the computers and start a simple subject search. History. There are all sorts of entries for all sorts of periods. Well that was brilliant, Hong. So I type in “History” and “Thailand.” Having met with my advisor only once, given his crazy busy schedule, I figured that a good place to start, given my academic training (and the fact that it’s my comfort zone), was reading some good ol’ Thai history. Where to start though, where to start?

I chose a book at random and head up to the appropriate floor. Odd, why are all the books here in shelves with glass sliding doors? Let’s go do some exploring. I take about 5 steps when I hear a stern voice speaking to me in Thailand. It seemed to be saying, “young man, just what do you think you’re doing?” I turn around and it’s a little old Thai lady with a serious look on her face, wearing a white blouse with dark gray skirt and a pair of no-nonsense spectacles. I look at her confused and she points the way out. It was then that I noticed a gigantic sign (in English) that read “staff only.” Oh brother…

I begin the routine again…Hi, I’m a new researcher here…

Call number?

I’m sorry?

For the book. Call number.

I don’t know. I can’t remember.

At this point, she pulls out yet another form with both English and Thai on it. She walks me over to a computer and we do a search. And she supervises me as I take information from the screen and write it on the paper. We walk back to her counter.

Library card?

I don’t have one yet. I do have this…University ID though.

She paper clips my ID to the sheet of paper and walks off. But before she does…

“You wait for me,” as she points at the nearest table.

She brings the book over and I start to read. Even the places I don’t normally read like the introduction and the acknowledgements. It was a good thing that I did too. Because I learned that the book covered the first half of the 19th century – up to the time when the best-known economic histories of Thailand begin their narratives. I guess I feel in my element when I can contextualize my research. No better way to do that than to read some history! It was then that I felt like I was starting to get somewhere with my “work.”

Here are some gratuitous pictures of campus buildings. The first is the auditorium and the second is the Faculty of Arts building.

Concerning Fulbrights...

Ok, now that I’m back in Bangkok, it’s time to start looking into getting some work done! I trekked over to campus and popped my head into my advisor’s office. Not there. Mailbox overflowing. Yup, an research oriented academic. I look into his assistant’s office. Also not there. Great. How am I supposed to set up an appointment when the assistant isn’t ever in the office either??

A hop, skip, jump and 10% of the water in my body to the unforgiving furnace that is Bangkok later, I’m at the Fulbright office and meet Khun Siriporn Sornsiri (Program Officer) and Khun Porntip Khanjaniyot (Executive Director) for the first time. In Thai, the letters “p-o-r-n” together are pronounced like “pawn.” Just thought I’d clarify that for everyone =).

PK: Oh! Very nice to meet you. I was expecting somebody a little more…mature based on your emails. The way you write made you sound older; very professional!

HC: Oh, thank you! .

They are very nice ladies and from meeting them, I could tell that they were very ambitious and driven women. No surprise, given the fact almost everyone is the office is a woman. One interesting factoid that I shared with Dr. Earenfight was that in reviewing some of the grants for the last few years, I found that the majority of them went to women whose subjects of study were centered upon issues surrounding women. I wish SOMEBODY would’ve told me THAT sooner! The other thing is, this may seem obvious to many of you, but not to me, is that the people in the Fulbright office have a good deal of influence in terms of the grants that are funded. Learn what they’re about and bam, you’re in. The only trouble is that it’s hard to find out before you actually get to know them. Hah hah! Also it’s not like their contact information is posted on the IIE website. A good resource for future scholars, if you are reading this, Dr. Earenfight, is maybe to try and get in touch with past scholars for the country in which the prospective grantee is interested. That way, you can ask them what sorts of people run the office and what sorts of projects might be more feasible than others or might not have been done before.

The reason I went today was to give them my bank account information so that they can do direct transfers for future grant disbursements and hand over my invaluable American passport so that they can get my visa extended for the length of my stay. Only I run into a snag because being the weird neat freak that I am, I pulled out my “Arrival/Departure Card” that I filled out at Customs and had been stapled to my visa page – I didn’t like it in there because it was sticking out of my passport – anyway, it’s needed to process the visa extension. So I told her I’d bring it in. Khun Siriporn invites me to come back tomorrow and go to lunch with her, Khun Porntip and a Senior Scholar who is arriving tonight, she says I should bring it the card then.

What time should I come in?

Noon.

I don’t recall how long it took me to get there from campus – so I guess I’ll have to leave early. I wouldn’t want to keep everyone waiting…so typically Thai ~

Going “My Way” ... all the Way to the Redlight District!

It’s not what it sounds! My “tour guides” decided it might be fun to give me a sense of what the Patong nightlife is all about. So they took us to My Way Phuket, in one of the several “Red Light Districts” along Patong (it rhymes, hah hah). It’s essentially a cabaret type show where there is singing and dancing and gaudy costumes of all sorts. Only all the characters on stage are male – er, or at least some of them used to be –“Lady-boys,” as they are known in Thailand. The area itself is all lit up in neon, so it felt like I was stepping onto the main boulevard in Las Vegas, only in miniature!


The act we walked in on was something straight out of Bollywood, costumes, music, dance and all the usual fanfare. I think there might have been some sort of story line, but we must have missed it. It was over the top tragic! I loved it!


Would you like a drink, sir?

Just orange juice for me, thanks!

Anyway, my friends explained the whole phenomena of how in places like these, you could “buy” company for the night. I didn’t see anybody who was overtly for sale – I learned this after we had left. So prostitution is technically illegal in Thailand, apparently, but there are ways of getting around it. These escorts, if you will, technically work for the bar. So if you wanted to take a particular one “off-site” you pay the bar. Seems quite technical to me.

The act that I can’t possibly NOT tell you about is the Michael Jackson look-a-like who jumped on stage and lip-synced to his “You Are Not Alone.” I was appalled. I didn’t know what I was watching. It was something like when you drive past a traffic accident and you just have to look and can’t pull your gaze away. Anyway, we stayed long enough for a couple more acts before we left. I must add, that most of the performers looked like very convincing and beautiful women! Um, except for the Michael Jackson one.


Thanks for the uh, introduction, guys!

Oh, you’re welcome! Fantastically tragic, wasn’t it?

Hah hah, yeah…

---

So I totally forgot to mention that two of guys I’m running around Phuket with are up and coming young fashion designers for the fashion boutique “Tube Gallery.” Actually, I should say they own and operate Tube. Check out some of their stuff at: http://www.soiwat.org/Tube-Gallery_r41.html

Oddly enough, in a city of over 12 million and a ton of universities big and small, these two are graduates of Chula, the university out of which I’m based. It seems like many of the successful people I’ve met so far in Thailand come out of there. I hope this means good things!

Island paradise, coral reef graveyard…

Today I went to Phi Phi Island and a couple of the surrounding ones. In Thai, you usually pronounce consonants followed by the letter H with a hard sound. I’m not up to par on my linguistics terms, but take for example, the letter K. In English, when you say a word like…ketchup. It’s a hard K. However, there is another way of saying K – a soft one. In which, it sounds more like a G – almost like the word, gather. Long story short, since the P in Phi Phi is followed by an H. You aspirate it. So it’s pronounced “Pee Pee.” The few Westerners on the boat chuckled every time the tour guide said it. He certainly played it up, too.

Anyway, we were on a motor powered boat that featured three propellers situated at the back of the boat. It was one of the larger ones on tour that day. I can’t remember the order the islands we went to, so forgive me =). I was busy enjoying the scenery!

We visited briefly the beach where Leonardo DiCaprio’s movie was shot. It’s called Maya Beach. If you recall seeing the movie, then you know that it’s a beautiful beach that is sort of tucked away behind a couple of rock formations that jut out from either side of the waters leading up to the beach. Our tour guide told us that the tourism authority used to charge 20 baht (about 50 cents) to get up on the beach. However, after the 2004 tsunami, they decided to charge 200 baht – about $5.75. Anyway, we have the choice of whether we wanted to get out of the boat or not. No one raised his or her hand when the tour guide asked if we wanted to get outta the boat. We were all quite content with taking photos from the boat (about 200 feet).

We also went to another tourist hot spot – James Bond Point – so unofficially dubbed because it was the setting for a famous scene in 007:Tomorrow Never Dies, where Pierce Brosnan purportedly jumps into the water from the rocky cliffs surrounding this small cove with bright turquoise water to make some sort of a getaway – how’s that for bad grammar!? To give us a taste of the thrill of being a secret agent, we were encouraged to plunge into the waters ourselves. I was a little nervous given the fact that the waters were so clear that I could see the sea bed – still, I was SO on it! It turns out the water was probably a good 20 feet deep at least. So no jumping on sharp corals for me ~

Anyway, if you don’t remember seeing the movie, Google image the beach. Maya Beach. I’d share some pictures that I took with you. Except I forgot to charge the battery before my trip down to Phuket. And I left the charger in Bangkok. Hah. Ok then. Even after the destruction caused by the tsunami, the beach is quite picturesque.

Another stop on our itinerary was Monkey Beach, so named because it is home to a large family of monkeys of some sort. Don’t ask me what kind. They were gray. And they were unafraid of humans. Much like the fish that would eat out your hands here. As much Animal Planet as I watch, I couldn’t tell ya which species of monkey they are. “Don’t touch the monkey. Don’t feed the monkey. Don’t pick up the monkey. Even the baby. And most importantly, don’t kiss the monkey! Your friend, not my friend!” warned our tour guide – again and again. Nonetheless, there were people from other boats who actually fed the monkeys some bananas. I guess their tour guides weren’t as clear about what they should and shouldn’t do.

I had the best snorkeling experience here at this particular beach. The water was clear and deep. The beach was clean and the sand was soft and white. I am sad to report, however, that all of the tourism to the area has destroyed what once upon a time, must have been a gorgeous marine landscape all along the Phi Phi boat tour routes. I can see this in the way the fish will come up to your hands if you have them closed in a fist as though you were holding something, namely food. I can also see it in the less noticeable but nonetheless veritable coral reef graveyard littering the ocean floor. It’s not even an intact graveyard. There are a million pieces of broken skeletons all over the floor. Much like gravel in a home aquarium; they were probably smashed to bits by the tour boats coming in and out or by the thousands of people that visit Phuket’s surrounding islands. I felt terrible that I was A) part of the species that fueled this destruction and B) part of the subset of said species that was paying money to add to the destruction. Sigh.

Phi Phi Island proper was one of the unfortunate places that was hit the hardest by the watery tower of death. There remains to this day about 500 or so people unaccounted for. The unique geography of the island meant that it felt the full force of both tidal waves that came through – from both sides of the island. You’ll see what I mean if you see a picture. Oh, good grief, I”ll Google is for you =).



Anyway, pretty much everything was washed away except for the largest hotel on the island. Two years hasn’t been enough time for everything to go back up on this fairly remote island about 45 minutes from Phuket; a lot of the structures there are sort of temporary looking.

On Phi Phi, we had lunch served by locals dressed in the Muslim fashion and looking distinctly different from the ethnic Thais up in the central plains where Bangkok is nestled in the Chao Phraya River delta. The food they served was a little different too.

We made one last stop at a much larger beach in the afternoon as we were heading back home. The tide was starting to go out, so many of my fellow snorkelers were swimming dangerously close to the coral reefs nearby. Here on this beach, the destruction was visible along the beach shore. The waves washed the bits and pieces to create a ring of pain (to walk on) on the sand. Still, for the few minutes I spent in the receding waters, I could see that the marine life was struggling to survive. There was some color still in some of the mostly dead formations. After I figured out the little pricks I was getting from underwater were coming from some of the more aggressive fish whose territory I was probably invading, some minor bumps and scrapes and finally, a piece of coral jammed up my big toe, I figured it was time to get out of the water – but not fully. As I examined my foot under the water, my mind flashed briefly on the years I’ve spent watching the National Geographic Channel and I wondered if the blood flowing from my toe would attract sharks. It stung quite a bit to have my toe in the salt water, but I remember from somewhere that salt water is supposed to act as a natural antiseptic and astringent, so I let it soak for a while until the pain went away and after I has washed out all pieces of coral and sand. I walked around the beach a little bit and saw other casualties a lot worse than mine and was thankful I got out when I did because at this point, the coral formations were starting to stick OUT of the water.

By the time we made our way back to Phuket, the tide was so low that the water behind us was brown from all the sand being kicked up by the propellers. Also, we were limited to a small strip of water that had probably been dredged to allow small to medium watercraft get back to the docks. The path itself was marked by a series of tall wooden poles that showed us where the point of safety met with the point of peril.

"The Beach"

Remember that Leonardo DiCaprio flick from a few years back called "The Beach" ? Well, I'm at the island where he was based out of during the filming of the movie -- Phuket, Thailand. For those of you who don't know, Phuket is Thailand's largest island and is a world-famous vacation hotspot and not-to-be-missed tourist destination.

Boy, can I see why! Patong Beach is just one of the many beaches that this island in the south of Thailand features. It’s touristy like you wouldn’t believe! Take a scene out of Disneyland and you’ll begin to get a sense of how many people are running around. Patong’s vicinity is abuzz with activity at all hours of the day and night – so it’s more like an adult Disneyland. Some of the other, quieter beaches are more suitable for families with small children. I hate to admit this, but it’s easy to get caught up in the excitement in the air. Everyone is there to have fun (except the locals, of course, who are working their butts off to sell, sell, sell to the hungry tourists). You can find everything from postcards, cheap sandals, scandalous swimwear, antique replicas and other traditional décor to 24 hours convenience stores, an array of ATM machines, Starbucks’s and even company for the night, whatever your taste!

My clique is staying at the Hilton Arcadia Phuket. It is an absolutely fabulous hotel with excellent service and three different outdoor swimming pools, an onsite spa, fitness center, several dining establishments and even a mini golf course. Most in the group are Thai, so they’re quite comfortable with navigating the island, but somebody who can speak English is always close by – it seems to be the universal language in Thailand, because even the tourists from Europe and other parts of Asia use it to communicate with the locals.

Anyway, having been to Phuket a few times, they know the drill. I find out they’ve hired a driver for the weekend that picked us up from the international airport and drops us off at the hotel. We unpack and met up again to go for lunch. We sail right on by Patong, much to my chagrin. I wasn’t about to pipe up though, since I was the one tagging along on this trip. Apparently, they had been planning this for some time. We make our way along the main highway on the island and spiral along the windy road up to a high point. I see signs for many other touristy destinations such as FantaSea (a recreation of a traditional Thai village for the purpose of entertaining tourists), Simon Cabaret (featuring multi-talented lady-boys), a couple of Muslim graveyards (we are in the south of Thailand, after all) and a bunch of other beaches. We finally stop at a place called Laem Sing (Lam Sing, Lion’s Point, I think, so named because it has a small and rocky promontory that sticks out into the Andaman Sea) – Sing, as in Singha beer! It’s a nice, quiet and somewhat remote beach featuring it’s own rows of beach umbrellas and recliners. We sit down for lunch, which was an experience in itself.

I’ve always known that Thais love food, but I witnessed it first hand, since this is really my first meal with a bunch of them. There are only 6 of us, but they order something like 10 different plates of food, plus rice, soup and fruit plates! Not to mention drinks and appetizers! Somehow, we managed to eat it all, but not before I committed a cultural faux pas ~

One of the dishes we ordered was a whole fried fish in garlic and whatever else. Once we had finished picking at it from one side, I proceeded to…turn it over, so I can get at the other side – mostly since I didn’t get much of the first side as I was waiting to observe how my Thai friends do it. Anyway, they all let out a gasp! What? What did I do?? You’re not supposed to do that! Do what? Flip the fish! It’s bad luck! Uh oh, I thought. Why? It has to do with the fishermen. Oh, does flipping it mean that they’ll have bad luck with their catch? No, flipping the fish is symbolic of flipping the boat! Oh! Sorry, I’ll flip it back. No! Don’t do that. Ok, well, how are we supposed to eat the other side of the fish? Oh, that’s easy. You can either scoop it from underneath or you can remove the bones and eat it after that. Can you show me? Sure.

Anyway, I was mortified. Here I was, being the ignorant American that just upset the whole table. My friend from Seattle piped up and said he didn’t know about it either. So it took a little bit of pressure from me. Still, I felt like quite embarrassed by the whole ordeal.

After we let our food settle, we all got Thai massages on the beach from the ladies working at the beachfront food stand (that was their other income producing activity). It only cost 300 baht for an hour – about $8.50. Score! It was exactly what I needed after having an achy body for the last week and a half from traveling and trying to adjust to a new bed and pillow. Then I went for a short swim ~ I’m at the beach! What else would I do?

Friend from Seattle coming to BKK

Tomorrow, I’m meeting with a friend from Seattle who writes about Asian issues. He’s flying in today and we’ll be flying down to the resort town of Phuket in the morning. Some of you may recall that Phuket was one of the areas in Thailand that was hit by the Tsunami during Christmas time, two years ago. I’m not sure how it’s faring these days, but I will let you know when I come back! I think it will be a good getaway from the hectic-ness of Bangkok for a weekend. I’m going to LOVE getting some sun and a fabulous couple of days at the beach =).