ลอยกระทง, or Loi Krathong -- The Festival of Lights

I am fortunate enough to have been able to take part in this annual celebration! Loy Krathong is celebrated on a date that changes according to the Lunar Calendar – it usually falls in November (the 12th month) and is always on the night of the full moon in said month.

Looking at the picture above, you can see that “Loy” roughly means, “to float” and “Krathong” (pronounced ka-tong, with a long O) is a small raft that was traditionally made out of a section of banana tree trunk that is beautifully wrapped and lined with intricately folded banana leaves.

These days, however, you don’t have to look very far to see the cheaply and hastily made modern variety styrofoam krathong. Nevermind the fact the you’re going to set them adrift on the Chao Phraya and therefore release this non-biodegradable substance into the already over-polluted main artery of Bangkok’s waterways. I, however, am happy to report that the one I purchased was made entirely of natural materials that will eventually make their ways back into the circle of life…[sigh] I digress…

The pier was full of merchants busy making krathongs. On the left is an example of the styrofoam variety. The lady [?] in the center waves hello ~

This swanky watercraft, which varies from about a hand-span in diameter to as large as four to five feet across, is often decorated with a variety of flowers, candles and incense sticks. Here are some of the more creative ones I ran across:

This is a picture of my friend Jay and I, trying to keep our krathongs lit while battling the winds on the fast-moving Chao Phraya River's surface. Legend says that you will get whatever you ask for if your krathong stays lit until it is out of your sight. No, you can't just close your eyes!

Even the monks are busy at work with their EDIBLE krathongs!


So in addition to the floating of Krathongs, there are also fireworks and beauty contests. I didn’t see any beauty contests, but I did see plenty of fireworks and a lively night fair at Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). Here are some pictures for your visual pleasure:


And just because so many of you commented on the Thai architecture I included in an earlier post, here are some close shots of other buildings on the temple grounds that will wow you:


Here are some shots that I feel merit some commentary:

I thought we were in Thailand. No, really. I was surprised to find out that the entire temple is covered in Chinese ceramic. From afar, it looked like the building was made entirely of some kind of stone! Aren't these sculptures exquisite?

Here's an image in color!


So, according to Buddhist tradition, you may earn "merit" by purchasing and affixing gold leaf to Buddha images -- or, you could just give money to the temple and monk community -- the earthly servants of Buddha.


I don't think the guy in green appreciated my capturing on film, this most private of religious moments where you receive the blessings of Buddha's earthly representatives...sorry!


This was definitely put into place for the tourists, no Thai would be caught dead doing something so heinous!


Still, sometimes, holiness gives way to expediency...


Ouch! I wonder what happened here...


In terms of the history behind Loy Krathong...well, we think that it has its roots, like many Thai cultural and linguistic traditions, in India. Loy Krathong has been likened unto the Hindu Divali festival. Who uses that phrase anymore, anyway, "likened unto..." ? Still, it has a certain catchiness to it, non?

Also, I should say that the festival itself and the floating of the krathongs are not just for the sake of fun –- I mentioned above that Thailand celebrates Loy Krathong in the last month of the Lunar calendar. This happens to coincide with the beginning of the dry season AND the harvest. Thus, it is also a celebration of thanksgiving. However, like so many other adopted customs, the people here have made the tradition uniquely Thai by giving it a song as well as a time-honored anecdote explaining its origins that was enshrined within the country’s folklore when it was written down by His Majesty King Rama IV. Also, the Thais have dedicated the festival to Buddha, as opposed to the Hindu gods. As a good student of history, I feel obliged to cite my source for this information – so, thank you, Wikipedia =). If for some reason you want to know the song and the story…”Google it,” as I always say ~

One final thing I should note in terms of the special meaning accorded to the krathongs, courtesy, again, of Wikipedia:

“The act of floating away the candle raft is symbolic of letting go of all one's grudges, anger and defilements, so that one can start life afresh on a better foot. In the olden days, Thai people used to cut their fingernails and hair, floating away the clippings on the raft too, as a symbol of the bad parts of oneself one was letting go of. Many Thai believe that floating a krathong will create good luck, and they do it to honor and thank the Goddess of Water, Phra Mae Khongkha (see the connection with the harvest and change of seasons...?)”

What did I let go of, you ask? WELL, I shall have to politely say, as the Thais do, mai pen rai (never you mind).