Tuesday, January 16, 2007

Phra Nakhon si Ayutthaya: The Sacred City of Ayodhya



Ayutthaya is a Thai adaptation of the Sanskrit word “Ayodhya” meaning “not to be warred with.” Ayodhya is actually the name of an ancient city in India believed to be the birthplace of Rama, the seventh incarnation of the Hindu god Vishnu. This is just one example of the powerful influence of ancient India on the people of Southeast Asia. Ayutthaya was founded as the capital of a Thai king by the name of U-Thong (Ramathibodi I) in 1350. In 1365, he forced the king of Sukhothai to submit to him and made Sukhothai a vassal state. Then, in 1438, Sukhothai was made into one of Ayutthaya’s provinces. Thus, Ayutthaya became the new center of military, political, cultural and socio-economic power and eventually, the capital of the kingdom that was to become Siam (before the kingdom’s name was changed to Thailand in the 20th century).

My trip to Ayutthaya came about in a fairly interesting way. I went with a young Thai lady by the name of Mai, whom I had just met a few days earlier on my trip to Koh Kred. Originally, we had planned the trip to include my Canadian friends Sacha and Jeremy through whom I had met Mai, but Sacha ended up having to work unexpectedly and Jeremy had some sort of headache the morning of. I wondered if we would still be going, just Mai and me. It was particularly awkward because young Thai women (the “proper” ones) don’t normally hang out alone with men, unless they’re dating and even then, she is often accompanied by an older sister or female friend. Also, it’s just weird to hang out with a relative stranger for a whole day. I started to get worried that we weren’t going to go as I was really looking forward to it. I was relieved to find out that Mai was where she said she would be at the appointed hour and that she had invited another female friend to go along with us. Her name is Rini and she is an English teacher from Malaysia.

So the three of us met up at a place called Victory Monument, a common meeting place for buses and mini-vans for hire to various places in Thailand. It was also one of the places that was bombed during the New Year's Eve attacks -- don't worry, it's USUALLY quite safe. Two of the reasons I was looking forward to traveling with Mai, aside from the fact that she is a total sweetheart, is that one, she speaks Thai and knows what she is doing or at least, she can ask questions better than I can in my broken Thai; and two, she’s from Surin, a province that borders Cambodia and so she can also speak Khmer (Cambodian). We had lots of fun when we first met just learning languages because the two of us conversed in Thai, Khmer and English. She taught me some Thai whilst I taught her Khmer and English.


When we arrived in Ayutthaya, we met up with one of Mai’s friends, Gook. Gook was a blast and completely atypical of any Thai woman I’ve ever met. Actually, she has the personality of a western woman. She’s independent, extroverted, free-spirited, speaks her mind and doesn’t conform to any such notion of a “proper” lady. She jumped on the tour bandwagon with Mai, Rini and I and the four of us went about exploring Ayutthaya in a tuk-tuk we had rented for the day.









This is a very famous "postcard" site. It is located at Wat Mahathat.


Apparently, Gook has never actually taken a tour of the historical sites in Ayutthaya, even though she lives there. We finished off the day in a boat tour around the island part of the city, which is fairly large.


These are shots I took of the people who live along the river...going about their daily lives, particularly when tourists are around.



This is me pretending that I'm a traditional Thai dancer.



Ok, so one of the temples we visited featured this glass case displaying a life-sized image of a famous Buddhist monk. A little freaky, if you ask me...


These are pictures of I took of a Chinese temple along our river tour.




See what I mean about a gal who is untraditional? I mean, what kind of a Buddhist would put merit-making gold leaf on herself instead of on the Buddha figures? Ah Gook...


These grounded boats used to be part of a floating resort. They're still part of a resort now, just on land.


These are pictures of my elephant riding adventure. My companion is Mai.




We made a few stops along the way to visit some of the more prominent temples and then headed back to the restaurant that her boyfriend owns. There, we were treated to drinks and a fabulous dinner.


Saturday, January 13, 2007

Koh Kred: Tiny Island on the River of the Kings


Koh Kred is a small, man-made island on the mighty Chao Phraya river in neighboring Nonthaburi province. It was created in the 18th century by one of the kings of Ayutthaya to shorten the route from Ayutthaya to the Gulf of Thailand along the Chao Phraya River.

We went on to Koh Kred on Children’s Day because my friend Sacha had the day off (she teaches English at a primary school). Thailand has Father’s Day on the king’s birthday and Mother’s Day on the queen’s birthday. Children’s day is always on the second Saturday after the new year in January. It was on this trip that I met one of Sacha’s friends, Mai. Jeremy also came along. We caught a mini-van that took us to Nonthaburi and from there, took a boat across the river to the island and set about exploring it. The island is home to a small community of ethnic Mons who are known for their distinctive clay pottery. We visited their kilns and workshops and even picked up a few pots to take home with us. Usually, visitors can watch a daily cultural show that involves firing some clayware as well as a cooking demonstration, but as it was a holiday, there were no shows that day.



We wrapped up our shopping on Koh Kred and headed back to Bangkok. It was nearing 7pm by the time we got back into the city and I suggested that we go check out a restaurant that one of my Thai teachers told me about – Larb Lang Suan (Park Side Salad). The name doesn’t translate particularly beautifully, but I had heard such good things about it that I just HAD to try it. And when else would I do this besides when I’m with a Thai person who can figure things out. So this particular restaurant specializes in Isaan food (the NE of Thailand), which I’m quickly learning to love – also Mai’s home province of Surin is part of Isaan.



Still, all my expectations were dashed to pieces because the first thing we learned upon going about the ordering process was that they were out of sticky rice, but that they had regular jasmine rice. And that they only had half a roasted chicken left to go with our papaya salad. SACRILEGE!! Mai and I gasped. Jeremy and Sacha were like, “what? WHAT??” So an Isaan restaurant without sticky rice and roast chicken is like an Italian restaurant that has run out of red sauce for pasta or mozzarella cheese for pizza or like a Starbucks that has run out of regular cow’s milk or espresso roast. Anyway, much to my chagrin, our experience at Larb Lang Suan was less than stellar…and poor Sacha was looking forward to sticky rice all day ~

Monday, January 08, 2007

Happy Birthday to Meeee


Thanks for all your lovely well wishes =)...tonight was a quiet evening. Jeremy and I went to dinner at Sizzler, of all places. We gorged ourselves on their bargain of a salad bar and then had some yummy chocolate cake that I got for myself. Then we went to go see Blood Diamond, starring Leonardo DiCaprio. So normally, I think he's a little bit of a dork. But he wasn't so bad in this movie.

This year is yet another one that I was away from home on my birthday. So even if you guys wanted to surprise me with a birthday party like Razz organized last year, it couldn't have happened. Heh heh. Still, I appreciate the happy thoughts you sent my way ~~ We shall have a gigantic party next year!!

Friday, January 05, 2007

Stir-Fried Chicken with Cashew Nut



So earlier tonight, my friend Jeremy and I had dinner at my local hangout that I enjoy oh so much – Thai Ruam Rose. If you come visit, I will take you there and they will greet us with lovely smiles. We could even sit in the air-conditioned section of the restaurant for 5 baht per head. Anyway, at this point, I’ve started to order what I can in Thai and the rest in English. On this particular visit, I ordered my usual cashew nut chicken along with a few other dishes. When the server calls our order back to us, I heard her say something about mangoes. I didn’t order anything with mangoes, I thought to myself. So I clarified it with her and she said, “stir-fried chicken with cashew nut, right?” Yes.

Halfway into dinner, my Thai friend Blue joins us. I ask him what the word for cashews is in Thai. He tells me that it is “mamuang himapaan.” Mamuang is the word for mango. Himapaan is something of a magical or enchanted forest. So I’m like…ok, magic forest mangoes. I don’t get it. Hah hah. Blue explains that because of the mystical qualities of the forest, many things come in miniature while others come in giant size. Since cashews are shaped somewhat like mangoes in miniature, you can see how they become the magic forest mangoes, can’t you?

Ah, Thailand…

Visit to Samrong


Today, I had the chance to visit one of my classmates from the AUA Thai program at his home in Samrong district of nearby Samut Prakan province. Richard teaches English in Japan, but his family lives here in Thailand. His wife Kwan is from Buriram
Province in NE Thailand on the border with Cambodia.

Some of the things you will only see as you get further and further away from Bangkok are: (1) a tuk-tuk powered the traditional way; (2) a traditional style farmer's market; (3) a jackfruit tree:




As Richard and I got to know each other during breaks between classes, I came to learn that Kwan is ethnically Khmer and comes from a largely Khmer village. As a result of her being born and raised in Thailand, however, her spoken Khmer sounds slightly different from the Khmer I grew up speaking. In Khmer, we note this distinction by calling the dialect she speaks “Khmer Leu” and the one I speak “Khmer Growm.” These spellings are my own attempts at transliteration, so ask me to say them for you some time if you want to hear how it actually sounds. They translate into “top” or “upper” Khmer and “bottom” or “lower” Khmer, respectively. This has more to do with geography than any kind of social hierarchy as the speakers of Khmer Leu come from the highlands or northern Cambodia and along the border with Thailand. Anyhow, the speakers of Khmer Growm comprise the majority of the population and live in the river valley areas and in the cities. One interesting thing I should share though is that Richard tells me that apparently, the Khmer Growm consider the Khmer speakers in Vietnam the Khmer Growm and themselves the Khmer Leu. For my part, I hadn’t even heard of the term Khmer Growm. However, it makes sense to me that if there is an upper Khmer that there should be a lower Khmer as well. When my mom told me about the existence of this distinct group of Khmer speakers to me as a child, I imagined something like Cambodian Indians – hah hah. I guess when you belong to the majority group, it’s easier and sometimes more important to establish who doesn’t belong to it – a kind of identity formation in the negative or defined by exclusion of others.

So although the two “dialects” are distinct, I can understand Khmer Leu without too much effort. I put dialects in quotation marks because my only other experience with them is with Chinese. If you know anything about my family background, you know that we’re ethnically Chinese and that we speak something other than Mandarin – Chow Zhou. The other dialect I’ve had some exposure to is Cantonese. In most instances, these three dialects share very little in common when spoken. However, all Chinese dialects share the same writing system. I don’t think that somebody who speaks only Mandarin could easily understand somebody who only speaks Cantonese in the way that I can understand both versions of Khmer. It does, however, take a little bit of concentration on my part as well as a little bit of repeating of what is being said. In the end, I was able to communicate with Kwan and her brother as they spoke to me in Khmer Leu and I to them in Khmer Growm. Of course, being able to throw in a little Thai when necessary helped! Apparently, they had as much fun as I did with the whole situation. Through our conversation, I found out that Richard’s live-in brother-in-law has a family in the provinces still, even as he is now living in Samut Prakan and working at a nearby factory. His wife and children operate a small shop selling various goods. I was also able to meet two of Richard’s children, who claimed that they could understand Khmer but are unable to speak it. I think they were just being modest. They communicated this to me in a mix of Khmer and Thai, so it is a good think my Thai is at a point where I can hold simple conversations!

Richard’s neighborhood was quite a lovely place, I’d have to say. He was very apologetic from the start about how his home and way of life was going to appear very basic to me. However, I found it to be a very refreshing retreat from the constant buzz of life in Bangkok. Aside from the killer mosquitoes that seemed intent on eating me alive as I am fresh meat to them, it was a fabulous afternoon. The dogs and cats that ran around all had caretakers and seemed to belong to multiple households…not that there was too much in the way of delineation in terms of personal property in Richard’s neighborhood. Earlier, I had asked Richard who the lady sleeping on his couch was, thinking that she may be Kwan’s sister or cousin or something. He replied that he didn’t really know who she was and that perhaps she was one of the neighbors. I found this to be a rather delightful example of Thainess that one would have a harder time finding amidst the distorted Thainess usually seen in Bangkok.

So after several instances of being asked if I was hungry, I finally said yes, whereupon Kwan jumped on a bike and rode off around the corner. She returned about 15 minutes later with dinner and set up the table for Richard and I. In the normal Thai fashion, she dutifully pointed out to me which dishes were spicy and which ones were not. But she did it in Khmer, which I found quite amusing for some reason.

This is a picture of one of the neigborhood's back streets:


Finally, it was time for me to go home and get out of their hair. It was about 18:00 at this point, so I had to brave the Bangkok rush hour traffic. Yeah. That was exciting. It took me over an hour and a half to travel less than 30 kilometers.

Monday, January 01, 2007

Not So Happy New Year

So my friends from Seattle and I had all these plans to go out last night and see Bangkok’s New Year’s Celebrations. We were supposed to start out with a small get together at their hotel and then head out to Central World Plaza (where Bangkok Elle Fashion Week took place) where a beer garden, live concerts and a countdown were scheduled to take place. Then, we were supposed to head over to Sanam Luang and see the fireworks over Wat Phra Kaew and the Chao Phraya River. Of course, all that was foiled by the fact that at around 18:00 (GMT + 7), the first of a series of bombs exploded near a bus depot near Victory Monument on Phayathai Rd only a few kilometers from where I live.

I was just getting into a taxi with my friends Rocky and Michael, who are staying with me and also visiting from Seattle) when I got a call from my friend Tyler, whom we were on our way to meet. Gosh, I thought. I’m only 5 minutes late, what could he want?

Then he told me about the explosion and that I should be careful. At the time, I was none the wiser, but once we found a taxi and got in, the driver mumbled something after I told him where we were going and he appeared to be a little anxious. Instead of the usual Thai country music from Isaan playing over the radio, I found myself listening to something like talk radio. I tuned in with my limited Thai and was able to pick out bits and pieces of what was going on.

The serious tone of the conversation that was coming across the airwaves was enough to let me know that there was fear and uncertainty regarding the whole situation. They detailed a number of places where at least three more bombs had gone off since the first one at Victory Monument about 30 minutes prior. They then went into a discussion about the closing times of various malls. I couldn’t quite figure out why they were talking about mall hours. Once I got to Tyler’s hotel room, I read the breaking news on CNN.com from the webpage he had already pulled up.

What I found out was that just as malls tend to stay open later during the Christmas season at home, they stay open later in the days leading up to New Year’s Day in Thailand. However, given the situation, all of the malls were closing early. Also, the Bangkok municipal government was ordering the cancellation of all public celebrations over concerns that there would be more explosions before the night was over. Of course, this included the cancellation of the festivities at Central World, where my friends and I had planned on going to earlier in the day. It’s a good thing too, because at about 22:00, two more bombs went off at Central World Plaza. Before the night was over, there were a total of 8 explosions and a ninth bomb that was apparently a dud. I got a series of phone calls from friends in Bangkok, including one of my Fulbright friends, who was in town from Northeastern Thailand for NYE, telling me to be careful. I also got a call from Jackie, one of my Thai teachers at the AUA whose wedding I had attended only a few days earlier.

This morning, I got a call from the executive director at TUSEF (Fulbright Thailand) checking in on me to make sure that all was well. She reiterated the information I had been receiving via email from the US Embassy in Bangkok insofar as the local authorities still do not know who is responsible for these explosions. Early speculations point to either Southern Muslim insurgents or possibly to the supporters of ousted former PM Thaksin Shinawatra. Needless to say, it put a little bit of a damper on the evenings festivities, but we decided to play it safe and spent a fairly relaxed evening indoors instead.

Friday, December 29, 2006

A Thai Wedding ~


So I’m very excited to report that I was invited to and attended a real-life Thai wedding! It took place in Samut Songkram province about 45 kilometers SW of Bangkok. The bride and groom were Jackie and Guillaume, respectively. Jackie is one of my teachers at the AUA and Guillaume is one of the more advanced students there. Guillaume is from somewhere in the south of France and has been here for some time. They met at the AUA.

I was sort of invited spur of the moment, but was very happy to have been invited, especially since Thais usually only invite family and close friends to such private functions. It was the last day of classes at the AUA before the winter break and I just happened to run into Jackie at the nearby skytrain station as we were both heading to the twice-yearly Jim Thompson sale. Jim Thompson is a large retail chain that is the leader in the sale of Thai silk. Its founder, Jim Thompson, is widely recognized for having single handedly revived the silk trade in Thailand. Anyway, it’s very expensive to shop at their stores, so when the sale happens, all the women flock to it. Particularly the Japanese ladies in BKK, as I’m told. Naturally, I felt a little weird when I actually got there and I was one of the handful of men there. I just had to check it out to see what the fuss was about and maybe get a few gifts to dole out once I get back home, where there is no JT. So Jackie was going there to meet her brother, who works for JT in their HR department. We decided to head over together and got to talking about what we were going to be doing over the break. The topic of her quickly approaching marriage came up, during which she expressed that she had been trying to keep it fairly hush hush because she didn’t want to just invite anybody to her wedding. Given that many of the students at the AUA Thai program are westerners, where weddings tend to be big events where casual acquaintances are usually welcome to attend, she knew that if the word got out, there may be many people whose feelings would be hurt by not having been invited. After she explained all of this in Thai with some English thrown in and a little bit of self-struggling that was apparent on her face, she invited me to come! When we got to the convention hall, I met her brother and her fiancée and they explained how I was going to get to her home as neither the skytrain nor the subway goes out that far. Yay!!


One of the other things that I was looking forward to was seeing my other AUA teachers outside of the classroom and see what they were like then weren’t donning their teacher guises – like when my professors at Seattle University took off their professor suits and went out for drinks with me, heh heh – after I graduated, of course!

To get to the wedding, I had to get up very early to catch a 5:20am mini-van leaving from the AUA campus. The other passengers included a couple of teachers in the AUA Japanese program and more advanced Thai program students who had gotten to know either Jackie or Guillaume. When we got to Jackie’s grandparents’ home, I was quite excited to see how accurately it fit her descriptions of it in class. Jackie was raised by her grandparents as her parents lived further south near Hua Hin province.

The house was a gorgeous, traditional Thai-style wooden house that sat upon stilts and was fairly open-air in many parts of it. Perfect for the tropical climate that is Thailand’s. On this particular morning though, it was rather chilly and many of the guests, including myself found ourselves shivering. But no matter. Jackie’s mother graciously provided all of us with hot cups of coffee and steaming bowls of “johk,” a common Thai breakfast food that can be described as a thick, rice soup that is pretty much the same thing as Chinese congee.


The series of ceremonies started around 9 am with a lot of incense and prayers, kneeling and bowing to various ancestors. Then, as is the custom, 9 monks came to the home and so began the seemingly endless regiment of chanting in Pali to bless the union. So commoners (everybody in the house except for the monks) have to sit a particular way where you tucks your legs underneath you to one side. You’re not supposed to sit cross-legged because to do so would suggest that you’re an equal to the monks. It was torturous and reminded me of my childhood, when I had to endure the same thing when my mother would take me on visits to the temple. We concluded the ceremonial pieces by blessing the couple individually by pouring water from a conch shell over their hands as they kneel, bound together by a symbolic piece of white string.


Then it was time to eat! But first, a couple of observations…

Growing up in a Chinese home, I had never seen a Buddhist wedding ceremony that involved monks. Chinese marriages tend to focus more on family and ancestors and has less to do with religion. Whereas the Chinese wedding centers upon a tea ceremony where the bride and groom presents cups of tea to both sets of parents, there is no such thing in a Thai wedding. There was something similar in the form of an “exchange.” Various elders, often married, would present a special envelope with some sum of money in it and the bride and groom would offer small gifts in exchange.

For Thais, there are three (four if you’re male) events in life that mark the most important points in your earthly existence: birth, marriage, and death (and entry in the monkhood if you’re male). Each of these events require the services of monks – who, ironically, are well compensated for their roles as the human intermediaries between heaven and earth.


Whereas one can say that the tea ceremony in a Chinese wedding is the “I do” moment, there is no easily identifiable moment when the bride and groom become husband and wife. One of my fellow guests and I ruminated upon this very topic for some time. Interestingly enough, she is a Cambodian-Chinese-Australian, whereas I am a Cambodian-Chinese-American. Together, we played the game of trying to relate the things we saw with what we were familiar with.

One of the questions we entertained was, if somebody had grounds for objecting to the union, when would they make this fact known? At what point have you crossed the “point of no return?” We then rationalized between ourselves that this being Thailand, if someone had something real against the whole wedding, it would have come out long before the wedding or simply not at all. To us, it seemed unfeasible that the Hollywood wedding-crashing-ex who drops in just in time to stop the wedding and confess his undying love scenario to actually happen.

Food: The manner in which the food was served was very much like that of a Chinese wedding banquet. Only, in a Chinese wedding, it would have taken place several hours after the morning tea ceremony, usually around 6 or 7 pm. In the Thai wedding, the banquet became lunch. I asked one of my other AUA teachers about it and they told me that sometimes, the family will choose to hold an evening banquet instead of the afternoon lunch. Sometimes, they will do both. So each dish was served in courses, beginning with an appetizer and progressing into main dishes and ending with desserts.

By 2pm, many of our van mates were ready to head home, including myself. The fact that I had gotten up at 3:30 am was starting to take its toll on my energy level. This is besides the fact that the previous chilly day had turned into yet another hot and sticky tropical day. Ah, Thailand. You’ve got to love the climate here!

After we said our goodbyes to all the appropriate people with the customary “wais.” We then jumped into our van for the two hour long drive back into Bangkok. And when we got back and I got myself showered, I dragged my exhausted self back into bed…

Monday, December 25, 2006

Merry Christmas!

Christmas seemed pretty uneventful this year…mostly because I didn’t have any Starbucks Cheer Parties to plan or Holiday Rallies to attend. If you’ve known me for a while, you know that I’ve spent pretty much all of my last 6 Christmases working at Starbucks on both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day…and pretty much every day or so in the weeks leading up to Christmas since winter break from school usually commenced by the second week of December just in time for the frenzied holiday shopping season. As such, I was always surrounded by the latest jazzed up version of Christmas music – some of it catchy and much of it absolutely dreadful. But I love Christmas and December is my favorite month of the year. Odd as that sounds. I love the cold and the grey. I love that every where I go, there are pretty lights and sparking tinsel. To me, there seems to be a magic in the air that isn’t present throughout the rest of the year. Maybe I sound like a brainwashed Starbucks former employee (they truly are something to fear), but the excitement that was present for me within my store is something I miss. These are pictures from last year's work Christmas party at my place. I miss my Starbucks peeps ~ Next time you go to the Starbucks on Broadway, please say hello for me =)






Oh well. This year, I was lucky to have some visitors from Seattle to hang out with during Christmas. Nothing too fancy. We had Christmas dinner together from my neighborhood restaurant, drank some lovely wine and headed out for a round of drinks. I hope your Christmases were equally merry and bright!

Saturday, December 16, 2006

Thai Ways

One of the experiences that has been going through my mind a lot over the last few weeks is my meeting with Mr. Pongpol Adireksarn along with the other Fulbrighters. He has previously served as Minister of Education, Agriculture, Foreign Affairs, and Deputy PM (all separate positions, but some concurrent with others, I think), as well a couple of other posts. I remember these particular two because they were the positions that are most important to my research as well as that of one of the senior researchers doing work in Thailand’s political economy and the current and future role of agro-business here. At the time, I had only been in Thailand for about five weeks, so much of what he said went over my head. Still, I took some sparse notes about the things that I wasn’t really already familiar with. It is concerning these things that I will be writing for this particular entry. I should provide an advisory warning that this particular entry has the potential for causing extreme confusion and headache and that it took me two months to wrap my head around =). I am still learning about these issues on a daily basis, so do not be too concerned if I don’t make any sense. I’m using this as a way to work through my own understanding of the matter and am simply offering to take you all on the ride with me. Generous, aren’t I?

Khun Pongpol started out by welcoming all of the newest Fulbrighters to Thailand and asked us the usual round of questions such as how long we had been in Thailand and how we were liking it. He then provided a brief outline of what he had prepared to share with us that day, noting that there are three very important things we should know about Thailand and that once we understand them, we will understand Thai culture, society and people. Of course, this certainly encouraged us to pay attention since, as “farang,” we’re often baffled by some of the things we observe in a country that is at times infuriating, at times mysterious and oftentimes, wonderful. I should mention that Mr. Pongpol is an accomplished fiction writer and is well known in Thailand and whose work has been translated into a variety of other languages for audiences in other countries. Therefore, he certainly knows how to hook in an audience!

The three things are as follows: (1) Thailand is a monarchy; (2) Thailand is Buddhist; (3) Thai Ways. The first two are pretty self-explanatory and not nearly as important to what I’m trying to communicate in this particular entry. That is not to say that they’re not important, however. I mean, we can get technical and go into the fact that Thailand is actually a constitutional monarchy and has been since the very beginning of the current Chakri Dynasty and because of this, the development of democracy in Thailand has taken a unique path. On the role of Buddhism, I have yet to spend an adequate amount of time ruminating upon. Thus, the role of the monarchy and religion will have to be saved for another time and place. What I’m going to look at then, is the topic of “Thai ways.”

The reason I’m going into relative depth about these “Thai Ways” is because I believe that they play a crucial role in my research. They’re not directly related to economics, but once I’ve discussed them, my hope is that you too will see why I have latched onto them. Let’s not get ahead of ourselves here. I will return to his point once I’ve given you something to chew on. I’ll start by going through what I mean by “Thai Ways” and then examine two in particular. Then, I will go into how these two pieces of Thai culture can potentially underpin a great deal of my research here in Thailand. Finally, I’ll offer a blip on the implications of what I feel is a personal revelation for me. Gulp.

First, I should note that he didn’t actually use the term “Thai Ways,” it is my own addition and not even original at that. I borrowed it from the title of a book written on this very subject. It sounded to me like he said Thai Character or Characteristics, but for reasons you shall soon hopefully understand, nobody ventured forth and asked for clarification. In his explanation of the role of these “characteristics,” he mentioned two very specific terms. They are Thai terms and so I shall have to do my best to provide an explanation for them. In fact, my explaination may come across as almost philosophical and not entirely unlike a treatise on “Truth” with a capital T. It caused me to have a mini-flashback to freshman philosophy, when I studied Plato and Aristotle…[shudder].

The two terms are “Greng Jai” and “Man Sai.” Khun Pongpol explained that these two “feelings” underly all social interaction in Thai culture and are present in all relationships from those inside the familial unit throughout the entire government system. In short, they affect the way life works in Thailand. Now comes my attempt at describing them. Please pay close attention!

I apologize in advance to anybody out there who has a more firm understanding of them than I do and if you can explain it better than I can, please let me know =). One last tidbit of information I should share before I launch into the serious stuff is that there is an entire book written on these uniquely Thai characteristics. The book is called “Heart Talk” and is written by Christopher Moore. So if you’re intrigued by what I’m about to tell you, by all means, go get the book and let me borrow it when you’re done, heh heh ~


Greng jai can be very roughly translated as “consideration.” Let me give you the example that Khun Pongpol gave us. On a recent trip that required travel by airplane, Mr. Pongpol found that somebody was occupying his seat. He double-checked his ticket to make sure that he wasn’t the one who was mistaken. Nope, he was correct. Somebody was sitting in his seat. He then spoke with one of the female flight attendants and told her that somebody was in his seat. She replied that she was aware of the fact and that despite this, she doesn’t dare mention it to this other passenger. Think about that for a second. She doesn’t “dare” ask him to move. For our Western minds, this might seem a little baffling. Isn’t it her job to make sure that people are in the right seats and therefore ask them to move when they are in the wrong one? It turns out that the man occupying Khun Pongpol’s seat was an important government official and Khun Pongpol actually knew this, given his tenure in the civil service. So what happened? Well, Khun Pongpol walked right up to the man and said, “Hey! You’re in my seat!” The man checked his ticket, acknowledged his mistake (not sure if he apologized), and moved.

So let’s pick apart this scenario, shall we? Even though the air-hostess (as they are known here in Thailand) knew that he was in the wrong seat, she didn’t dare to say anything to the man. What you should know about Thailand is that it is a very socially hierarchical society that isn’t really clearly delineated. There are many indicators and qualities that one can possess that one can serve to place you on the giant totem pole of Thai society. However, how many points each of these things give you and how they are all combined to give you your social “score” is a still a mystery to me. Suffice it to say that like in any hierarchy, there are superiors and inferiors. In this case, social superiors and social inferiors. Some are easy. An older person is a social superior to a younger person. Your boss is your social superior. Men are socially superior to women outside the home (the reverse is true inside the home!). No comment on the rationale behind all of this.

Anyway, so the female air-hostess, as the social inferior to the male government official passenger, would have been violating social rules if she were to point out his mistake and ask him to change his seat. Social inferiors should never point out the mistakes of social superiors nor question their decisions. Maybe he didn’t like his seat and wanted to change. To me then, Greng jai almost seems like, “fear: or “knowing your place” as opposed to “consideration.” Hence my remark about it being a very rough translation. Another thing you should know is that sometimes, it’s hard to say what is appropriate. For example, given age and rank at the time, Khun Pongpol was also the social inferior of the other gentlemen, but given his previous posts, reputation, contacts, etc. he was able to break through the normal rules of contacts and point out the mistakes of a man who would be his social superior.

Confused yet? Greng jai often contributes to what many Westerners see in a critical light as a Thai’s tendency to either lie outright or be indirect and non-confrontational at all costs. Of course, the consideration aspect of it should not be ignored because it also applies to other situations. These of course, assume that you’re a Thai. For example, you’re riding on the skytrain (Bangkok’s ingenious version of a monorail, if only Seattle could get its act together) and you are fortunate enough to get a seat. Behind you is a little old Thai lady who finds that all the seats have been taken. You get up and offer her your seat in consideration of her age. That is also Greng jai. Or, you’re invited to somebody’s home and you’re invited to “make yourself at home.” This doesn’t mean that you can kick off your shoes and put your feet on the coffee table or take yourself on a tour of the home. Also, even if what you really want is a glass of that really expensive bottle of Cognac you see on the bar, you reply “water is fine, thank you.” See, I told you that this endeavor to explain the meaning of Greng jai is not unlike trying to explain the meaning of happiness.

Ok, next up, “Man Sai.” This one is a little easier, in my opinion. My own translation is that it is something like, “love-hate.” Still, it has its connection to Greng jai, so it is helpful that we’ve already gone over that. Man sai has to do with the feeling you get, as a social superior, when one of your juniors outshines you. Remember when I said that social inferiors should never complain nor should they questions the decisions of their social superiors? Well, this extends to the display of your abilities as well. You should never outperform or appear more competent than your superior, even if he or she is completely inept and a bumbling fool and would lead the company or organization to ruin if it were up to him or her. Again, let me emphasize that man sai is a feeling that is experienced by the social superior. It’s part embarrassment, part anger, part “well, I’ve never!” and part admiration. Usually, the superior feels this when, as the leader of a particular project or business unit, you are unable to solve a problem. But somehow, one of your junior members has the perfect solution and as somebody who has a lot the learn about Thai social interaction, blurted out the solution for all to hear at the last team meeting. Now, you’re relieved that you have the solution to your problem to present to your boss, but you’re also fairly embarrassed that your entire team knows that it wasn’t you, as the leader, who came up with the answer to everyone’s woes. Now you’re considering putting up a recommendation to HR that this precocious youngster be transferred to another branch in some far off province on account of insubordination or laziness. Thus, a young worker in who has just been accepted into government service or an office would do well to find subtle ways to reveal the location of the secret panacea to his boss’s problems if he doesn’t want to be transferred to Isan.

So now we can return to where we started and answer your questions as to how this has anything to do with why I’m in Thailand. How exactly ARE these observations related to my work and research in Thailand, you ask? Actually, it’s my opinion that understanding these aspects of Thai culture is crucial to my ability to get anything meaningful out of my time here. The discipline of economics, or the study of the production, consumption, transfer and allocation of a limited supply of resources, rests on an a priori assumption that these resources have VALUE to somebody. Economics teaches us that because of the value we place on said resources, we will BEHAVE in fairly predictable ways with regards to these resources; namely, we will act in such a way as to get obtain more resources = more is better. Economists also believe that we can predict with relative certainty how humans will behave. We can say that there is an assumed level of RATIONALISM and LOGIC involved in our behavior; we think about how we can apply the “more is better” concept and take actions that take us towards that goal. Thus, we can arrive at the conclusion that given how human values, logic, and rationalization all affect human behavior, we can start to look for their effects on the production, consumption, transfer and allocation of resources. Greng jai and man sai fall into the Thai value system and will therefore have an effect on the behavior of Thai people. In conclusion then, they will ultimately have an effect on the economic rules in place in Thailand.

To date, the bulk of economic thought and literature features the work of western minds. This is an important thing to keep in mind because I believe it follows then that the cognitive pathways that are purportedly “presupposed” when it comes to modern economic theory, rest upon essentially western thinking. One could argue that humans are humans no matter what part of the world they live in and therefore, have certain basics needs to fulfill. This is true. However, I think that to rule out the effects of culture and society on human economic behavior is a mistake.

What if the reason that economic theory seems to fall apart everywhere outside of the western world is because of the fact that to date, much of it is based on western modes of thinking? I mean, why is William Easterly of the World Bank’s book, “The Quest for Growth,” an account of adventures and misadventures in the tropics? Why have Nobel Prize winning economic models and formulas failed in practical application in the countries that need them to work the most? This is where my observations about Thai culture and society come into play: what if the influence of societal pressures, values, and mores is strong enough to change or suppress what would normally be considered rational behavior according to modern economic theory? Is it a surprise then that the models from which we are working, which assume that certain decisions will be made under given circumstances, fail when there are things outside of the model which affect said decisions? One can argue that the models are made to take into account the expected outcomes for the average person. But what if the average person and his or her values do not align with the definitions set out as part of the model’s underlying assumptions?

To give you some examples, let us revisit Greng jai and man sai. In a normal, capitalistic society that values merit, we would normally reward a worker bee who displays talent, ability and competency. In fact, we encourage discussion and differences of opinion and open dialogue. We generally feel that through disagreement, we are forced to consider many angles and possible solutions to a problem before we arrive at a decision. In the end, the team can feel comfortable proceeding because they’ve exercised due diligence in being proactive and anticipating outcomes. However, this process also takes a lot of time and energy. In Thai society, the decision making process is much more streamlined and simple – the boss makes all the decisions. No questions asked. Even if the worker bee sees a grave error in whatever the boss decides to do, Greng jai will keep him from saying anything about it. Moreover, if the worker bee is smart, he will make any good outcomes appear to be the sole handiwork of his boss.

If you throw in man sai to the mix, you will see another reason why Thai culture may appear to run counter to the logic of modern economic thought. Even if a young worker bee is talented and capable, he will do his best to hide it and not stand out too much from the rest of his co-workers. He will certainly do his utmost to make sure he never does anything to show up his boss. Again, there is always that possibility that he will arrive at work one day and find out that for some reason, he has been assigned to a post in a province far to the North, away from his friends, family and sweetheart.

When you live in a society that favors collectivism over individualism and rigid enforcement of its social hierarchy, how can you be expected to follow the rules set out by intellectuals in a completely different society that values just the opposite? This mental exercise that I’ve been engaged in the last couple of weeks has certainly been taxing. It’s not even just the words of Khun Pongpol that helped me to work through all of this. My teachers at the AUA and the people on Bangkok streets all seem to be telling me the same thing.

So, I guess what I got out of this whole thing was that, I’m exactly where I need to be right now in my life. This might sound a bit deterministic, but I’ve always been a believer that things happen to us for a reason. My seemingly random choice of majors appear to be coming together in a way I couldn’t have foreseen. My training in social history is giving me tools that are somewhat lacking in economics, as I’ve discussed at length. However, my training in economics is quite useful in helping me to understand the publications and numbers I have been coming across – these, I haven’t even touched upon because they’re meaningless without more analysis. I’m hoping that my exposure to the world of modern business will come into play here very soon. Through the help of various people I’ve talked to, I’ve been picking up some very interesting leads. Let’s not discount my personal cultural background as well. Growing up in a household where three languages were spoken and where the origins of my values are hard to trace (are they Chinese? Cambodian? American?) has certainly helped me to open up all of my senses to the world around me. Even though I’ve never been to Thailand before this trip and had really only known one Thai person in my life, I feel a peculiar affinity for the culture in which I am living and that there is a lot that I am identifying with. In short, I feel quite at home here. But worry not, I will come home someday =).

Tuesday, December 12, 2006

Visit to a Fulbright Friend


By the generosity of one of the Fulbright Senior Scholars here in Bangkok, Dr. Bruce Svare, I was able to take a day trip out to a neighboring province. We took a rented van out to Nakhon Pathom province about an hour and a half west of Bangkok to see a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant (ETA) by the name of Sarah Sieloff. Sarah teaches at Pattarayan Wittaya High School in Nakhon Chai Sri amphur (an amphur is geographical area within a province) and is quite good at what she does! In addition to being a Fulbright ETA, she is also a Truman Scholar – the caliber of people who are attracted to the mission of the Fulbright is amazing, isn’t it? I feel so fortunate to have been given the opportunity to get to know people who are leaders in their field (as the Senior Scholars are) and young men and women whose talents have brought them quite far and have a ways to go yet in terms of their journeys in life.

Sarah teaches students from ages 13 to 18, if my memory serves me correctly – basically, the equivalent of US high school- aged kids. Our arrival at the school was fairly uneventful. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but we didn't get it. Hah hah. As we arrived in the middle of the school day, most of the students and teachers were still in classes. We wandered around a little bit and tried to call Sarah on her cell phone, but were unable to reach her. When we ran into a lady whom I thought looked teacher-ly, I used my broken Thai to ask where “Teacher Sarah” was. She then led us to the English Department’s office just a few doors down where we met up with Sarah, who was just wrapping up a few things she wanted to share with us. She gave us a brief tour of the office and the nicely air-conditioned computer room where she likes to teach. Apparently, it is easy to just up and move your classes if a particular room happens to be empty. I don’t remember seeing air-conditioners in the other classrooms, so you could probably understand why the computer room would be a nice place to be. Also, it happens to be one of the only "wired" rooms I saw, so Sarah is able to make use of technology to aid in her teaching. Given that she is teaching English to students whose native language is some form of Thai (there are geographical variations), sometimes actions are necessary to communicate an idea. Then it was time for lunch...

One of the interesting things I saw as we were wandering around the campus was how segregated the boys are from the girls...


We went to a place right down the street from the school that Sarah had found by trial and error during her months at the school. By now, I’m quite accustomed to eating at the type of establishment we sat down at. Sarah assured us that this place was excellent and I had every reason to believe her. It was a small stall set up in front of a home and the dining area was the family’s front yard. By this time, I had learned that just about every food stand has my favorite Thai dish (kraphao kai raat khao – stir-fried chicken with holy basil over rice), so that was exactly what I ordered. It was oh so wonderful. We talked for a little bit about what we wanted to do and who we were going to see that day, but mostly, we just caught up with each other about what we’ve all been up to and what we thought we might be doing for Christmas.

After lunch, we headed back to the school, where Sarah pointed out the assembly grounds where the students gather every morning at 8am. Here's a picture of the gathering space:


She then took us on a brief tour of the school, where we were able talk to some of the teachers through her =). Her Thai is much better than mine, so she asked all of the questions – thank goodness she was there! Much to my delight, I found that I understood quite a bit of what was being said in response to her questions. Yay, AUA and their Automatic Language Growth (ALG) method! We also saw some of the on campus housing. Apparently, it’s not uncommon for teachers to live on campus. Sarah happens to live with one of the top woman administrator at her school, so she is getting used to having a mom again after she had tasted the freedom of college life at a Florida university quite far from home (I think). Did I mention that Sarah is from Snohomish, WA? Small world, huh? Then it was time for her to teach.

Oh, by the way, here are Sarah’s words as to what she does on a day-to-day basis:

We do an opening ceremony every morning at 8am and it lasts until 8:25. All the students gather, sing some songs off-key, pray to the Buddha, and then sit and receive their daily dose of wisdom from one of the administrators, who is either berating them or giving them helpful advice and encouragement, I'm still not sure since the tones in Thai still throw me. I teach from 9:30 until 10:20 (Matthayom 6/1, the most advanced group of kids in the school, most of whom are university-bound). From 10:20 to 11:15 I'm with M5/3, where half of the class is deaf. They are accompanied by an interpreter who speaks decent English. From 11:15-12:10 I'm free. From 12:10 until 1:30 is lunch time. From 1:30-2:25 I don't teach. From 2:25-3:20 I'm teaching M3/5, which is a fun group of kids (like American 9th grade). The teacher supervising me actually supervises most of the time (a rarity) but her English is limited (when we speak, it's often in 1/2 Thai and 1/2 English) and she also teaches some Chinese. I get the feeling that Chinese interests her much more than English, but that English pays the bills…Thailand has passed a lot of educational reforms recently, and it's helpful to know what they're aiming for on paper vs. what the situation looks like on the ground.

This is Sarah in action -- I think she's a natural! You wouldn't believe that just a few months ago, she couldn't stand "kids" !!


What Sarah describes as discrepancy between what is on paper and what is on the ground is the very reason that I felt that it would be important to my research to go on this trip – this is of course, in addition to just being able to spend a day with my fellow Fulbrights and just get a sense of what they do on a daily basis. Let me just say that it is very different from what I do as my days are a lot less structured than theirs. Fortunately for me, I was also able to sit in on one of Bruce’s lectures at Chulalongkorn University before going to see Sarah’s school. The differences between the students at a public high school versus at one of Thailand’s most prestigious private universities weren’t all that great, actually. Although the students in Bruce’s class are senior college students, many of them exhibited the same types of behaviors as Sarah’s students. The main difference between the two classes is that in Bruce’s class, there were about 5 students who consistently raised their hands to either answer or ask questions. There was even one student who raised his hand and politely said that he simply disagreed with the conclusions of the author of one of their readings (Dr. Svare teaches in psychology, by the way). In Sarah’s class, many of the students seemed very nervous and looked as if they actively worked to stay unnoticed amongst the pack. For the most part, I noticed that the students in both classes were very hesitant to participate and volunteer. I’m thinking that much of it has to do with the language barrier. One young lady in Bruce’s class seemed very eager to ask and answer questions, but she had to do so through one of her classmates, who acted as an interpreter. Or maybe the meekness on the part of the students is simply a Thai thing. Perhaps on both occasions, it was because they were aware that visitors were in the classroom. I’ll have to defer to Bruce and Sarah on this matter, as they are the ones who stand in front of the classroom and teach.

After class, we were able to meet with one of the Assistant Directors of the school. I’m not sure how he would compare to the administrators in our high schools, but his title makes him sound like something of a vice principal. However, from talking to him, it sounded to me like his role was closer to that of a school principal. What the actual Director of the school does then, is still a mystery to me ~ Is it like a head of state and head of government thing? Perhaps Ajarn Wiichan, the Assistant Director, is one of the heads of government for the school and is responsible for making it tick. The term “Ajarn” by the way, isn’t part of his name, which is Wiichan (I hope I already mentioned that Thais don’t really use their last names very often, so I don’t even know what his last name is). Ajarn is a title of respect that’s also used to refer to university professors and also the teachers at this particular school. In contrast, the teachers at the AUA all go by the term “kruu,” which translates into “teacher.” As you might imagine then, there is a social and hierarchical distinction between kruu and ajarn and therefore, the level of respect that each title merits, respectively.

Here's a picture of me, Sarah, Bruce, one of the female teachers and the Assistant Director. I trust you don't need me to really go through who is whom...


Our meeting with him was actually quite interesting. From him, we learned that the Thai government spends a little over $30 per student annually through the equivalent of grade 9 and then about $55 for grades 10-12. Yes, you read correctly. Annually. I’d like to get the thoughts of American high school administrators on that tidbit of information. I remember from my days in student government when I was in high school that they were always complaining how little they had to work with in terms of funding. Actually, the numbers that they gave me were quite stunning, even to me and I’m familiar with some of these abysmal figures. I guess I had just forgotten. We learned that because of the very small amount of money that the central government shells out, the school systems require the parents of the students to fork out some money to help with the costs of running the school. This is quite a bit different from our public school systems where we have mandatory schooling up through grade 12 and it is truly free of cost for the parents (spare me the lecture about property taxes, yeah?). In contrast, the Thai system mandates schooling up through grade 9 and it’s certainly not free. They were baffled by the fact that a student who is an outsider can still go to school for free in our system – we were asked what happens if a student from NY were to move to WA and whether they would be expected to pay then. It just occurred to me now that the children of immigrants (legal or illegal) also go to school for free. Not sure that this would be the case for the Thailand, which also faces a problem with illegal immigration. One important difference I should mention as well is the level of centralization that the school systems are organized under – all public schools fall under the jurisdiction of the national Ministry of Education, which is of course, very different from our educational system, which is governed at the state level and further at the district level. At any rate, they’re trying to change this and make the schools more independent.

Finally (and one of the more exciting things I learned as a result of this trip), is that Sarah’s school is known as a “Dream School” and considered “Super Fast-Tech.” What makes them a Dream School is that they are participants in a program that bestows upon them a bright and shiny computer lab. With further questioning, I found out that the program is funded by grants from Krung Thai Bank, or what is more generally known as the Thai Military Bank, and administered by some branch of the Ministry of Education. According to the administrators, Krung Thai bank is a public corporation, but I’ve done some extra questioning and have heard that it is actually a state-owned enterprise (which would make sense given that it is the military bank). I also asked them what the motivation is for the bank to fund this program, which aims to provide access to technology to children in the public education system. Their answer was that given the bank’s success, they felt like they wanted to give back to the community. For those of you who are familiar with my research proposal and know that I’m very much interested on corporate giving and Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), you can see why I launched these series of questions at my generous hosts. I would have asked for much more clarification on the whole matter, but it was getting late and I didn’t want to keep them much longer – keep in mind that our meeting took place in the afternoon, when school was already out. And besides, our driver was waiting to take us back =).

So given the new information about the funding and nature of the Dream School project and what I saw earlier, I got to thinking. Sarah mentioned that one of the frustrations she’s had with the computer room is that although there are two rows of computers, she has only ever seen one row in use. Also, despite the fact that the computers are there, few of the teachers actually incorporate technology into their teaching. So my feeling is that it kind of defeats the purpose of providing the technology if it’s not going to be used to its full potential.

In a conversation I had with another person who has been quite indispensable in helping me to shape my research, Therese Caouette, I’ve come to consider a different point – who are programs such as the Dream Schools project really benefiting? Is it possible that it would instill a false sense of accomplishment? Obviously, the schools and students it would benefit most are the ones that have the sorts of resources and environment that would allow them to utilize the technology they are given to its full potential. The administrators of this program aren’t seeing the whole PROCESS through to its end. If they’re going to provide technology, they also need to ensure that the maximum benefits can be reaped from it. They need to provide training for the teachers in the Dream Schools so that they can serve as models and build upon the experience. It’s no use to anybody to spend what amounts to millions of dollars and have only half of it be beneficial to anybody.

If I take this experience further, I can see how the same problems can arise in any other type of social development programs or CSR initiatives for that matter. Throwing money at problems won’t fix them. Throwing computers at technology deficient populations won’t achieve anything. This situation just provides me with a whole host of reasons as to why economic growth formulas may have failed when economists tried to apply them to solving the problems of developing countries. If you say that given a certain amount of education, foreign direct investment, capital investment, etc should have X effects on GDP growth per capita, do you look at some of the variables that are harder to quantify? Economics, like any social science, has its limitations. There are things you just can’t express in numbers. Therese pointed out that when it comes to social development programs and related efforts, we have historically focused too much on product. We wonder what went wrong when our numbers don’t add up. Everything was applied in the correct quantities on the left side of the equation, how come the right side doesn’t come out right? I think the answer lies somewhere in the nebulous and unquantifiable areas that are bound to slip into the cracks where human beings are involved.

If you apply this to the Dream School project, maybe what I’m saying will make more sense. So Krung Thai Bank provides funding for so many computers for each beneficiary school in the hopes that it will encourage the training and development of a generation of students will be more computer literate. It hands it over to some office in the Ministry of Education to dole out and figure out which schools in which provinces will get the honor of being a Dream School. However, it doesn’t seem very apparent that there is much involvement from either Krung Thai Bank or the Ministry of Education in terms of seeing the project through to completion. How will they measure their success? Is there an identifiable goal that they are working towards? Who will be monitoring the program? Is there funding for the maintenance of the program? Is there an extra stipend to cover the cost of electricity that will be required to use the computers? Does anybody care? If the answers to some of these questions were a “yes,” somebody would be able to make sure that the second row of computers at Pattarayan Wittaya School were actually used. Somebody would come out and offer to give the teachers who wanted to learn various seminars on how to incorporate more technology into their curriculum. The grants would provide for teachers to have such training paid for. It would provide incentives for teachers in a system and society that is deeply entrenched in tradition to change. Somebody would be just as concerned about the processes as they are about the results. In short, the computers would be put to use instead of becoming outdated over time and being another phenomenal waste of money and source of confusion and disappointment for the architects of this supposedly well-hatched scheme to bring technology to the hoi polloi.

[Sigh]

Anyway, we ended the day by having dinner at a fabulous riverside restaurant where there were scary catfish the size of my legs swimming in the water. And people were feeding them! Shudder…no wonder they get so big! Here's a picture of it =). Regardless of the freaky fish, I shall have to go back there next time I'm in Nakhon Pathom ~