Friday, December 29, 2006
A Thai Wedding ~
So I’m very excited to report that I was invited to and attended a real-life Thai wedding! It took place in Samut Songkram province about 45 kilometers SW of Bangkok. The bride and groom were Jackie and Guillaume, respectively. Jackie is one of my teachers at the AUA and Guillaume is one of the more advanced students there. Guillaume is from somewhere in the south of France and has been here for some time. They met at the AUA.
I was sort of invited spur of the moment, but was very happy to have been invited, especially since Thais usually only invite family and close friends to such private functions. It was the last day of classes at the AUA before the winter break and I just happened to run into Jackie at the nearby skytrain station as we were both heading to the twice-yearly Jim Thompson sale. Jim Thompson is a large retail chain that is the leader in the sale of Thai silk. Its founder, Jim Thompson, is widely recognized for having single handedly revived the silk trade in Thailand. Anyway, it’s very expensive to shop at their stores, so when the sale happens, all the women flock to it. Particularly the Japanese ladies in BKK, as I’m told. Naturally, I felt a little weird when I actually got there and I was one of the handful of men there. I just had to check it out to see what the fuss was about and maybe get a few gifts to dole out once I get back home, where there is no JT. So Jackie was going there to meet her brother, who works for JT in their HR department. We decided to head over together and got to talking about what we were going to be doing over the break. The topic of her quickly approaching marriage came up, during which she expressed that she had been trying to keep it fairly hush hush because she didn’t want to just invite anybody to her wedding. Given that many of the students at the AUA Thai program are westerners, where weddings tend to be big events where casual acquaintances are usually welcome to attend, she knew that if the word got out, there may be many people whose feelings would be hurt by not having been invited. After she explained all of this in Thai with some English thrown in and a little bit of self-struggling that was apparent on her face, she invited me to come! When we got to the convention hall, I met her brother and her fiancĂ©e and they explained how I was going to get to her home as neither the skytrain nor the subway goes out that far. Yay!!
One of the other things that I was looking forward to was seeing my other AUA teachers outside of the classroom and see what they were like then weren’t donning their teacher guises – like when my professors at Seattle University took off their professor suits and went out for drinks with me, heh heh – after I graduated, of course!
To get to the wedding, I had to get up very early to catch a 5:20am mini-van leaving from the AUA campus. The other passengers included a couple of teachers in the AUA Japanese program and more advanced Thai program students who had gotten to know either Jackie or Guillaume. When we got to Jackie’s grandparents’ home, I was quite excited to see how accurately it fit her descriptions of it in class. Jackie was raised by her grandparents as her parents lived further south near Hua Hin province.
The house was a gorgeous, traditional Thai-style wooden house that sat upon stilts and was fairly open-air in many parts of it. Perfect for the tropical climate that is Thailand’s. On this particular morning though, it was rather chilly and many of the guests, including myself found ourselves shivering. But no matter. Jackie’s mother graciously provided all of us with hot cups of coffee and steaming bowls of “johk,” a common Thai breakfast food that can be described as a thick, rice soup that is pretty much the same thing as Chinese congee.
The series of ceremonies started around 9 am with a lot of incense and prayers, kneeling and bowing to various ancestors. Then, as is the custom, 9 monks came to the home and so began the seemingly endless regiment of chanting in Pali to bless the union. So commoners (everybody in the house except for the monks) have to sit a particular way where you tucks your legs underneath you to one side. You’re not supposed to sit cross-legged because to do so would suggest that you’re an equal to the monks. It was torturous and reminded me of my childhood, when I had to endure the same thing when my mother would take me on visits to the temple. We concluded the ceremonial pieces by blessing the couple individually by pouring water from a conch shell over their hands as they kneel, bound together by a symbolic piece of white string.
Then it was time to eat! But first, a couple of observations…
Growing up in a Chinese home, I had never seen a Buddhist wedding ceremony that involved monks. Chinese marriages tend to focus more on family and ancestors and has less to do with religion. Whereas the Chinese wedding centers upon a tea ceremony where the bride and groom presents cups of tea to both sets of parents, there is no such thing in a Thai wedding. There was something similar in the form of an “exchange.” Various elders, often married, would present a special envelope with some sum of money in it and the bride and groom would offer small gifts in exchange.
For Thais, there are three (four if you’re male) events in life that mark the most important points in your earthly existence: birth, marriage, and death (and entry in the monkhood if you’re male). Each of these events require the services of monks – who, ironically, are well compensated for their roles as the human intermediaries between heaven and earth.
Whereas one can say that the tea ceremony in a Chinese wedding is the “I do” moment, there is no easily identifiable moment when the bride and groom become husband and wife. One of my fellow guests and I ruminated upon this very topic for some time. Interestingly enough, she is a Cambodian-Chinese-Australian, whereas I am a Cambodian-Chinese-American. Together, we played the game of trying to relate the things we saw with what we were familiar with.
One of the questions we entertained was, if somebody had grounds for objecting to the union, when would they make this fact known? At what point have you crossed the “point of no return?” We then rationalized between ourselves that this being Thailand, if someone had something real against the whole wedding, it would have come out long before the wedding or simply not at all. To us, it seemed unfeasible that the Hollywood wedding-crashing-ex who drops in just in time to stop the wedding and confess his undying love scenario to actually happen.
Food: The manner in which the food was served was very much like that of a Chinese wedding banquet. Only, in a Chinese wedding, it would have taken place several hours after the morning tea ceremony, usually around 6 or 7 pm. In the Thai wedding, the banquet became lunch. I asked one of my other AUA teachers about it and they told me that sometimes, the family will choose to hold an evening banquet instead of the afternoon lunch. Sometimes, they will do both. So each dish was served in courses, beginning with an appetizer and progressing into main dishes and ending with desserts.
By 2pm, many of our van mates were ready to head home, including myself. The fact that I had gotten up at 3:30 am was starting to take its toll on my energy level. This is besides the fact that the previous chilly day had turned into yet another hot and sticky tropical day. Ah, Thailand. You’ve got to love the climate here!
After we said our goodbyes to all the appropriate people with the customary “wais.” We then jumped into our van for the two hour long drive back into Bangkok. And when we got back and I got myself showered, I dragged my exhausted self back into bed…
Monday, December 25, 2006
Merry Christmas!
Christmas seemed pretty uneventful this year…mostly because I didn’t have any Starbucks Cheer Parties to plan or Holiday Rallies to attend. If you’ve known me for a while, you know that I’ve spent pretty much all of my last 6 Christmases working at Starbucks on both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day…and pretty much every day or so in the weeks leading up to Christmas since winter break from school usually commenced by the second week of December just in time for the frenzied holiday shopping season. As such, I was always surrounded by the latest jazzed up version of Christmas music – some of it catchy and much of it absolutely dreadful. But I love Christmas and December is my favorite month of the year. Odd as that sounds. I love the cold and the grey. I love that every where I go, there are pretty lights and sparking tinsel. To me, there seems to be a magic in the air that isn’t present throughout the rest of the year. Maybe I sound like a brainwashed Starbucks former employee (they truly are something to fear), but the excitement that was present for me within my store is something I miss. These are pictures from last year's work Christmas party at my place. I miss my Starbucks peeps ~ Next time you go to the Starbucks on Broadway, please say hello for me =)
Oh well. This year, I was lucky to have some visitors from Seattle to hang out with during Christmas. Nothing too fancy. We had Christmas dinner together from my neighborhood restaurant, drank some lovely wine and headed out for a round of drinks. I hope your Christmases were equally merry and bright!
Oh well. This year, I was lucky to have some visitors from Seattle to hang out with during Christmas. Nothing too fancy. We had Christmas dinner together from my neighborhood restaurant, drank some lovely wine and headed out for a round of drinks. I hope your Christmases were equally merry and bright!
Saturday, December 16, 2006
Thai Ways
One of the experiences that has been going through my mind a lot over the last few weeks is my meeting with Mr. Pongpol Adireksarn along with the other Fulbrighters. He has previously served as Minister of Education, Agriculture, Foreign Affairs, and Deputy PM (all separate positions, but some concurrent with others, I think), as well a couple of other posts. I remember these particular two because they were the positions that are most important to my research as well as that of one of the senior researchers doing work in Thailand’s political economy and the current and future role of agro-business here. At the time, I had only been in Thailand for about five weeks, so much of what he said went over my head. Still, I took some sparse notes about the things that I wasn’t really already familiar with. It is concerning these things that I will be writing for this particular entry. I should provide an advisory warning that this particular entry has the potential for causing extreme confusion and headache and that it took me two months to wrap my head around =). I am still learning about these issues on a daily basis, so do not be too concerned if I don’t make any sense. I’m using this as a way to work through my own understanding of the matter and am simply offering to take you all on the ride with me. Generous, aren’t I?
Khun Pongpol started out by welcoming all of the newest Fulbrighters to Thailand and asked us the usual round of questions such as how long we had been in Thailand and how we were liking it. He then provided a brief outline of what he had prepared to share with us that day, noting that there are three very important things we should know about Thailand and that once we understand them, we will understand Thai culture, society and people. Of course, this certainly encouraged us to pay attention since, as “farang,” we’re often baffled by some of the things we observe in a country that is at times infuriating, at times mysterious and oftentimes, wonderful. I should mention that Mr. Pongpol is an accomplished fiction writer and is well known in Thailand and whose work has been translated into a variety of other languages for audiences in other countries. Therefore, he certainly knows how to hook in an audience!
The three things are as follows: (1) Thailand is a monarchy; (2) Thailand is Buddhist; (3) Thai Ways. The first two are pretty self-explanatory and not nearly as important to what I’m trying to communicate in this particular entry. That is not to say that they’re not important, however. I mean, we can get technical and go into the fact that Thailand is actually a constitutional monarchy and has been since the very beginning of the current Chakri Dynasty and because of this, the development of democracy in Thailand has taken a unique path. On the role of Buddhism, I have yet to spend an adequate amount of time ruminating upon. Thus, the role of the monarchy and religion will have to be saved for another time and place. What I’m going to look at then, is the topic of “Thai ways.”
The reason I’m going into relative depth about these “Thai Ways” is because I believe that they play a crucial role in my research. They’re not directly related to economics, but once I’ve discussed them, my hope is that you too will see why I have latched onto them. Let’s not get ahead of ourselves here. I will return to his point once I’ve given you something to chew on. I’ll start by going through what I mean by “Thai Ways” and then examine two in particular. Then, I will go into how these two pieces of Thai culture can potentially underpin a great deal of my research here in Thailand. Finally, I’ll offer a blip on the implications of what I feel is a personal revelation for me. Gulp.
First, I should note that he didn’t actually use the term “Thai Ways,” it is my own addition and not even original at that. I borrowed it from the title of a book written on this very subject. It sounded to me like he said Thai Character or Characteristics, but for reasons you shall soon hopefully understand, nobody ventured forth and asked for clarification. In his explanation of the role of these “characteristics,” he mentioned two very specific terms. They are Thai terms and so I shall have to do my best to provide an explanation for them. In fact, my explaination may come across as almost philosophical and not entirely unlike a treatise on “Truth” with a capital T. It caused me to have a mini-flashback to freshman philosophy, when I studied Plato and Aristotle…[shudder].
The two terms are “Greng Jai” and “Man Sai.” Khun Pongpol explained that these two “feelings” underly all social interaction in Thai culture and are present in all relationships from those inside the familial unit throughout the entire government system. In short, they affect the way life works in Thailand. Now comes my attempt at describing them. Please pay close attention!
I apologize in advance to anybody out there who has a more firm understanding of them than I do and if you can explain it better than I can, please let me know =). One last tidbit of information I should share before I launch into the serious stuff is that there is an entire book written on these uniquely Thai characteristics. The book is called “Heart Talk” and is written by Christopher Moore. So if you’re intrigued by what I’m about to tell you, by all means, go get the book and let me borrow it when you’re done, heh heh ~
Greng jai can be very roughly translated as “consideration.” Let me give you the example that Khun Pongpol gave us. On a recent trip that required travel by airplane, Mr. Pongpol found that somebody was occupying his seat. He double-checked his ticket to make sure that he wasn’t the one who was mistaken. Nope, he was correct. Somebody was sitting in his seat. He then spoke with one of the female flight attendants and told her that somebody was in his seat. She replied that she was aware of the fact and that despite this, she doesn’t dare mention it to this other passenger. Think about that for a second. She doesn’t “dare” ask him to move. For our Western minds, this might seem a little baffling. Isn’t it her job to make sure that people are in the right seats and therefore ask them to move when they are in the wrong one? It turns out that the man occupying Khun Pongpol’s seat was an important government official and Khun Pongpol actually knew this, given his tenure in the civil service. So what happened? Well, Khun Pongpol walked right up to the man and said, “Hey! You’re in my seat!” The man checked his ticket, acknowledged his mistake (not sure if he apologized), and moved.
So let’s pick apart this scenario, shall we? Even though the air-hostess (as they are known here in Thailand) knew that he was in the wrong seat, she didn’t dare to say anything to the man. What you should know about Thailand is that it is a very socially hierarchical society that isn’t really clearly delineated. There are many indicators and qualities that one can possess that one can serve to place you on the giant totem pole of Thai society. However, how many points each of these things give you and how they are all combined to give you your social “score” is a still a mystery to me. Suffice it to say that like in any hierarchy, there are superiors and inferiors. In this case, social superiors and social inferiors. Some are easy. An older person is a social superior to a younger person. Your boss is your social superior. Men are socially superior to women outside the home (the reverse is true inside the home!). No comment on the rationale behind all of this.
Anyway, so the female air-hostess, as the social inferior to the male government official passenger, would have been violating social rules if she were to point out his mistake and ask him to change his seat. Social inferiors should never point out the mistakes of social superiors nor question their decisions. Maybe he didn’t like his seat and wanted to change. To me then, Greng jai almost seems like, “fear: or “knowing your place” as opposed to “consideration.” Hence my remark about it being a very rough translation. Another thing you should know is that sometimes, it’s hard to say what is appropriate. For example, given age and rank at the time, Khun Pongpol was also the social inferior of the other gentlemen, but given his previous posts, reputation, contacts, etc. he was able to break through the normal rules of contacts and point out the mistakes of a man who would be his social superior.
Confused yet? Greng jai often contributes to what many Westerners see in a critical light as a Thai’s tendency to either lie outright or be indirect and non-confrontational at all costs. Of course, the consideration aspect of it should not be ignored because it also applies to other situations. These of course, assume that you’re a Thai. For example, you’re riding on the skytrain (Bangkok’s ingenious version of a monorail, if only Seattle could get its act together) and you are fortunate enough to get a seat. Behind you is a little old Thai lady who finds that all the seats have been taken. You get up and offer her your seat in consideration of her age. That is also Greng jai. Or, you’re invited to somebody’s home and you’re invited to “make yourself at home.” This doesn’t mean that you can kick off your shoes and put your feet on the coffee table or take yourself on a tour of the home. Also, even if what you really want is a glass of that really expensive bottle of Cognac you see on the bar, you reply “water is fine, thank you.” See, I told you that this endeavor to explain the meaning of Greng jai is not unlike trying to explain the meaning of happiness.
Ok, next up, “Man Sai.” This one is a little easier, in my opinion. My own translation is that it is something like, “love-hate.” Still, it has its connection to Greng jai, so it is helpful that we’ve already gone over that. Man sai has to do with the feeling you get, as a social superior, when one of your juniors outshines you. Remember when I said that social inferiors should never complain nor should they questions the decisions of their social superiors? Well, this extends to the display of your abilities as well. You should never outperform or appear more competent than your superior, even if he or she is completely inept and a bumbling fool and would lead the company or organization to ruin if it were up to him or her. Again, let me emphasize that man sai is a feeling that is experienced by the social superior. It’s part embarrassment, part anger, part “well, I’ve never!” and part admiration. Usually, the superior feels this when, as the leader of a particular project or business unit, you are unable to solve a problem. But somehow, one of your junior members has the perfect solution and as somebody who has a lot the learn about Thai social interaction, blurted out the solution for all to hear at the last team meeting. Now, you’re relieved that you have the solution to your problem to present to your boss, but you’re also fairly embarrassed that your entire team knows that it wasn’t you, as the leader, who came up with the answer to everyone’s woes. Now you’re considering putting up a recommendation to HR that this precocious youngster be transferred to another branch in some far off province on account of insubordination or laziness. Thus, a young worker in who has just been accepted into government service or an office would do well to find subtle ways to reveal the location of the secret panacea to his boss’s problems if he doesn’t want to be transferred to Isan.
So now we can return to where we started and answer your questions as to how this has anything to do with why I’m in Thailand. How exactly ARE these observations related to my work and research in Thailand, you ask? Actually, it’s my opinion that understanding these aspects of Thai culture is crucial to my ability to get anything meaningful out of my time here. The discipline of economics, or the study of the production, consumption, transfer and allocation of a limited supply of resources, rests on an a priori assumption that these resources have VALUE to somebody. Economics teaches us that because of the value we place on said resources, we will BEHAVE in fairly predictable ways with regards to these resources; namely, we will act in such a way as to get obtain more resources = more is better. Economists also believe that we can predict with relative certainty how humans will behave. We can say that there is an assumed level of RATIONALISM and LOGIC involved in our behavior; we think about how we can apply the “more is better” concept and take actions that take us towards that goal. Thus, we can arrive at the conclusion that given how human values, logic, and rationalization all affect human behavior, we can start to look for their effects on the production, consumption, transfer and allocation of resources. Greng jai and man sai fall into the Thai value system and will therefore have an effect on the behavior of Thai people. In conclusion then, they will ultimately have an effect on the economic rules in place in Thailand.
To date, the bulk of economic thought and literature features the work of western minds. This is an important thing to keep in mind because I believe it follows then that the cognitive pathways that are purportedly “presupposed” when it comes to modern economic theory, rest upon essentially western thinking. One could argue that humans are humans no matter what part of the world they live in and therefore, have certain basics needs to fulfill. This is true. However, I think that to rule out the effects of culture and society on human economic behavior is a mistake.
What if the reason that economic theory seems to fall apart everywhere outside of the western world is because of the fact that to date, much of it is based on western modes of thinking? I mean, why is William Easterly of the World Bank’s book, “The Quest for Growth,” an account of adventures and misadventures in the tropics? Why have Nobel Prize winning economic models and formulas failed in practical application in the countries that need them to work the most? This is where my observations about Thai culture and society come into play: what if the influence of societal pressures, values, and mores is strong enough to change or suppress what would normally be considered rational behavior according to modern economic theory? Is it a surprise then that the models from which we are working, which assume that certain decisions will be made under given circumstances, fail when there are things outside of the model which affect said decisions? One can argue that the models are made to take into account the expected outcomes for the average person. But what if the average person and his or her values do not align with the definitions set out as part of the model’s underlying assumptions?
To give you some examples, let us revisit Greng jai and man sai. In a normal, capitalistic society that values merit, we would normally reward a worker bee who displays talent, ability and competency. In fact, we encourage discussion and differences of opinion and open dialogue. We generally feel that through disagreement, we are forced to consider many angles and possible solutions to a problem before we arrive at a decision. In the end, the team can feel comfortable proceeding because they’ve exercised due diligence in being proactive and anticipating outcomes. However, this process also takes a lot of time and energy. In Thai society, the decision making process is much more streamlined and simple – the boss makes all the decisions. No questions asked. Even if the worker bee sees a grave error in whatever the boss decides to do, Greng jai will keep him from saying anything about it. Moreover, if the worker bee is smart, he will make any good outcomes appear to be the sole handiwork of his boss.
If you throw in man sai to the mix, you will see another reason why Thai culture may appear to run counter to the logic of modern economic thought. Even if a young worker bee is talented and capable, he will do his best to hide it and not stand out too much from the rest of his co-workers. He will certainly do his utmost to make sure he never does anything to show up his boss. Again, there is always that possibility that he will arrive at work one day and find out that for some reason, he has been assigned to a post in a province far to the North, away from his friends, family and sweetheart.
When you live in a society that favors collectivism over individualism and rigid enforcement of its social hierarchy, how can you be expected to follow the rules set out by intellectuals in a completely different society that values just the opposite? This mental exercise that I’ve been engaged in the last couple of weeks has certainly been taxing. It’s not even just the words of Khun Pongpol that helped me to work through all of this. My teachers at the AUA and the people on Bangkok streets all seem to be telling me the same thing.
So, I guess what I got out of this whole thing was that, I’m exactly where I need to be right now in my life. This might sound a bit deterministic, but I’ve always been a believer that things happen to us for a reason. My seemingly random choice of majors appear to be coming together in a way I couldn’t have foreseen. My training in social history is giving me tools that are somewhat lacking in economics, as I’ve discussed at length. However, my training in economics is quite useful in helping me to understand the publications and numbers I have been coming across – these, I haven’t even touched upon because they’re meaningless without more analysis. I’m hoping that my exposure to the world of modern business will come into play here very soon. Through the help of various people I’ve talked to, I’ve been picking up some very interesting leads. Let’s not discount my personal cultural background as well. Growing up in a household where three languages were spoken and where the origins of my values are hard to trace (are they Chinese? Cambodian? American?) has certainly helped me to open up all of my senses to the world around me. Even though I’ve never been to Thailand before this trip and had really only known one Thai person in my life, I feel a peculiar affinity for the culture in which I am living and that there is a lot that I am identifying with. In short, I feel quite at home here. But worry not, I will come home someday =).
Khun Pongpol started out by welcoming all of the newest Fulbrighters to Thailand and asked us the usual round of questions such as how long we had been in Thailand and how we were liking it. He then provided a brief outline of what he had prepared to share with us that day, noting that there are three very important things we should know about Thailand and that once we understand them, we will understand Thai culture, society and people. Of course, this certainly encouraged us to pay attention since, as “farang,” we’re often baffled by some of the things we observe in a country that is at times infuriating, at times mysterious and oftentimes, wonderful. I should mention that Mr. Pongpol is an accomplished fiction writer and is well known in Thailand and whose work has been translated into a variety of other languages for audiences in other countries. Therefore, he certainly knows how to hook in an audience!
The three things are as follows: (1) Thailand is a monarchy; (2) Thailand is Buddhist; (3) Thai Ways. The first two are pretty self-explanatory and not nearly as important to what I’m trying to communicate in this particular entry. That is not to say that they’re not important, however. I mean, we can get technical and go into the fact that Thailand is actually a constitutional monarchy and has been since the very beginning of the current Chakri Dynasty and because of this, the development of democracy in Thailand has taken a unique path. On the role of Buddhism, I have yet to spend an adequate amount of time ruminating upon. Thus, the role of the monarchy and religion will have to be saved for another time and place. What I’m going to look at then, is the topic of “Thai ways.”
The reason I’m going into relative depth about these “Thai Ways” is because I believe that they play a crucial role in my research. They’re not directly related to economics, but once I’ve discussed them, my hope is that you too will see why I have latched onto them. Let’s not get ahead of ourselves here. I will return to his point once I’ve given you something to chew on. I’ll start by going through what I mean by “Thai Ways” and then examine two in particular. Then, I will go into how these two pieces of Thai culture can potentially underpin a great deal of my research here in Thailand. Finally, I’ll offer a blip on the implications of what I feel is a personal revelation for me. Gulp.
First, I should note that he didn’t actually use the term “Thai Ways,” it is my own addition and not even original at that. I borrowed it from the title of a book written on this very subject. It sounded to me like he said Thai Character or Characteristics, but for reasons you shall soon hopefully understand, nobody ventured forth and asked for clarification. In his explanation of the role of these “characteristics,” he mentioned two very specific terms. They are Thai terms and so I shall have to do my best to provide an explanation for them. In fact, my explaination may come across as almost philosophical and not entirely unlike a treatise on “Truth” with a capital T. It caused me to have a mini-flashback to freshman philosophy, when I studied Plato and Aristotle…[shudder].
The two terms are “Greng Jai” and “Man Sai.” Khun Pongpol explained that these two “feelings” underly all social interaction in Thai culture and are present in all relationships from those inside the familial unit throughout the entire government system. In short, they affect the way life works in Thailand. Now comes my attempt at describing them. Please pay close attention!
I apologize in advance to anybody out there who has a more firm understanding of them than I do and if you can explain it better than I can, please let me know =). One last tidbit of information I should share before I launch into the serious stuff is that there is an entire book written on these uniquely Thai characteristics. The book is called “Heart Talk” and is written by Christopher Moore. So if you’re intrigued by what I’m about to tell you, by all means, go get the book and let me borrow it when you’re done, heh heh ~
Greng jai can be very roughly translated as “consideration.” Let me give you the example that Khun Pongpol gave us. On a recent trip that required travel by airplane, Mr. Pongpol found that somebody was occupying his seat. He double-checked his ticket to make sure that he wasn’t the one who was mistaken. Nope, he was correct. Somebody was sitting in his seat. He then spoke with one of the female flight attendants and told her that somebody was in his seat. She replied that she was aware of the fact and that despite this, she doesn’t dare mention it to this other passenger. Think about that for a second. She doesn’t “dare” ask him to move. For our Western minds, this might seem a little baffling. Isn’t it her job to make sure that people are in the right seats and therefore ask them to move when they are in the wrong one? It turns out that the man occupying Khun Pongpol’s seat was an important government official and Khun Pongpol actually knew this, given his tenure in the civil service. So what happened? Well, Khun Pongpol walked right up to the man and said, “Hey! You’re in my seat!” The man checked his ticket, acknowledged his mistake (not sure if he apologized), and moved.
So let’s pick apart this scenario, shall we? Even though the air-hostess (as they are known here in Thailand) knew that he was in the wrong seat, she didn’t dare to say anything to the man. What you should know about Thailand is that it is a very socially hierarchical society that isn’t really clearly delineated. There are many indicators and qualities that one can possess that one can serve to place you on the giant totem pole of Thai society. However, how many points each of these things give you and how they are all combined to give you your social “score” is a still a mystery to me. Suffice it to say that like in any hierarchy, there are superiors and inferiors. In this case, social superiors and social inferiors. Some are easy. An older person is a social superior to a younger person. Your boss is your social superior. Men are socially superior to women outside the home (the reverse is true inside the home!). No comment on the rationale behind all of this.
Anyway, so the female air-hostess, as the social inferior to the male government official passenger, would have been violating social rules if she were to point out his mistake and ask him to change his seat. Social inferiors should never point out the mistakes of social superiors nor question their decisions. Maybe he didn’t like his seat and wanted to change. To me then, Greng jai almost seems like, “fear: or “knowing your place” as opposed to “consideration.” Hence my remark about it being a very rough translation. Another thing you should know is that sometimes, it’s hard to say what is appropriate. For example, given age and rank at the time, Khun Pongpol was also the social inferior of the other gentlemen, but given his previous posts, reputation, contacts, etc. he was able to break through the normal rules of contacts and point out the mistakes of a man who would be his social superior.
Confused yet? Greng jai often contributes to what many Westerners see in a critical light as a Thai’s tendency to either lie outright or be indirect and non-confrontational at all costs. Of course, the consideration aspect of it should not be ignored because it also applies to other situations. These of course, assume that you’re a Thai. For example, you’re riding on the skytrain (Bangkok’s ingenious version of a monorail, if only Seattle could get its act together) and you are fortunate enough to get a seat. Behind you is a little old Thai lady who finds that all the seats have been taken. You get up and offer her your seat in consideration of her age. That is also Greng jai. Or, you’re invited to somebody’s home and you’re invited to “make yourself at home.” This doesn’t mean that you can kick off your shoes and put your feet on the coffee table or take yourself on a tour of the home. Also, even if what you really want is a glass of that really expensive bottle of Cognac you see on the bar, you reply “water is fine, thank you.” See, I told you that this endeavor to explain the meaning of Greng jai is not unlike trying to explain the meaning of happiness.
Ok, next up, “Man Sai.” This one is a little easier, in my opinion. My own translation is that it is something like, “love-hate.” Still, it has its connection to Greng jai, so it is helpful that we’ve already gone over that. Man sai has to do with the feeling you get, as a social superior, when one of your juniors outshines you. Remember when I said that social inferiors should never complain nor should they questions the decisions of their social superiors? Well, this extends to the display of your abilities as well. You should never outperform or appear more competent than your superior, even if he or she is completely inept and a bumbling fool and would lead the company or organization to ruin if it were up to him or her. Again, let me emphasize that man sai is a feeling that is experienced by the social superior. It’s part embarrassment, part anger, part “well, I’ve never!” and part admiration. Usually, the superior feels this when, as the leader of a particular project or business unit, you are unable to solve a problem. But somehow, one of your junior members has the perfect solution and as somebody who has a lot the learn about Thai social interaction, blurted out the solution for all to hear at the last team meeting. Now, you’re relieved that you have the solution to your problem to present to your boss, but you’re also fairly embarrassed that your entire team knows that it wasn’t you, as the leader, who came up with the answer to everyone’s woes. Now you’re considering putting up a recommendation to HR that this precocious youngster be transferred to another branch in some far off province on account of insubordination or laziness. Thus, a young worker in who has just been accepted into government service or an office would do well to find subtle ways to reveal the location of the secret panacea to his boss’s problems if he doesn’t want to be transferred to Isan.
So now we can return to where we started and answer your questions as to how this has anything to do with why I’m in Thailand. How exactly ARE these observations related to my work and research in Thailand, you ask? Actually, it’s my opinion that understanding these aspects of Thai culture is crucial to my ability to get anything meaningful out of my time here. The discipline of economics, or the study of the production, consumption, transfer and allocation of a limited supply of resources, rests on an a priori assumption that these resources have VALUE to somebody. Economics teaches us that because of the value we place on said resources, we will BEHAVE in fairly predictable ways with regards to these resources; namely, we will act in such a way as to get obtain more resources = more is better. Economists also believe that we can predict with relative certainty how humans will behave. We can say that there is an assumed level of RATIONALISM and LOGIC involved in our behavior; we think about how we can apply the “more is better” concept and take actions that take us towards that goal. Thus, we can arrive at the conclusion that given how human values, logic, and rationalization all affect human behavior, we can start to look for their effects on the production, consumption, transfer and allocation of resources. Greng jai and man sai fall into the Thai value system and will therefore have an effect on the behavior of Thai people. In conclusion then, they will ultimately have an effect on the economic rules in place in Thailand.
To date, the bulk of economic thought and literature features the work of western minds. This is an important thing to keep in mind because I believe it follows then that the cognitive pathways that are purportedly “presupposed” when it comes to modern economic theory, rest upon essentially western thinking. One could argue that humans are humans no matter what part of the world they live in and therefore, have certain basics needs to fulfill. This is true. However, I think that to rule out the effects of culture and society on human economic behavior is a mistake.
What if the reason that economic theory seems to fall apart everywhere outside of the western world is because of the fact that to date, much of it is based on western modes of thinking? I mean, why is William Easterly of the World Bank’s book, “The Quest for Growth,” an account of adventures and misadventures in the tropics? Why have Nobel Prize winning economic models and formulas failed in practical application in the countries that need them to work the most? This is where my observations about Thai culture and society come into play: what if the influence of societal pressures, values, and mores is strong enough to change or suppress what would normally be considered rational behavior according to modern economic theory? Is it a surprise then that the models from which we are working, which assume that certain decisions will be made under given circumstances, fail when there are things outside of the model which affect said decisions? One can argue that the models are made to take into account the expected outcomes for the average person. But what if the average person and his or her values do not align with the definitions set out as part of the model’s underlying assumptions?
To give you some examples, let us revisit Greng jai and man sai. In a normal, capitalistic society that values merit, we would normally reward a worker bee who displays talent, ability and competency. In fact, we encourage discussion and differences of opinion and open dialogue. We generally feel that through disagreement, we are forced to consider many angles and possible solutions to a problem before we arrive at a decision. In the end, the team can feel comfortable proceeding because they’ve exercised due diligence in being proactive and anticipating outcomes. However, this process also takes a lot of time and energy. In Thai society, the decision making process is much more streamlined and simple – the boss makes all the decisions. No questions asked. Even if the worker bee sees a grave error in whatever the boss decides to do, Greng jai will keep him from saying anything about it. Moreover, if the worker bee is smart, he will make any good outcomes appear to be the sole handiwork of his boss.
If you throw in man sai to the mix, you will see another reason why Thai culture may appear to run counter to the logic of modern economic thought. Even if a young worker bee is talented and capable, he will do his best to hide it and not stand out too much from the rest of his co-workers. He will certainly do his utmost to make sure he never does anything to show up his boss. Again, there is always that possibility that he will arrive at work one day and find out that for some reason, he has been assigned to a post in a province far to the North, away from his friends, family and sweetheart.
When you live in a society that favors collectivism over individualism and rigid enforcement of its social hierarchy, how can you be expected to follow the rules set out by intellectuals in a completely different society that values just the opposite? This mental exercise that I’ve been engaged in the last couple of weeks has certainly been taxing. It’s not even just the words of Khun Pongpol that helped me to work through all of this. My teachers at the AUA and the people on Bangkok streets all seem to be telling me the same thing.
So, I guess what I got out of this whole thing was that, I’m exactly where I need to be right now in my life. This might sound a bit deterministic, but I’ve always been a believer that things happen to us for a reason. My seemingly random choice of majors appear to be coming together in a way I couldn’t have foreseen. My training in social history is giving me tools that are somewhat lacking in economics, as I’ve discussed at length. However, my training in economics is quite useful in helping me to understand the publications and numbers I have been coming across – these, I haven’t even touched upon because they’re meaningless without more analysis. I’m hoping that my exposure to the world of modern business will come into play here very soon. Through the help of various people I’ve talked to, I’ve been picking up some very interesting leads. Let’s not discount my personal cultural background as well. Growing up in a household where three languages were spoken and where the origins of my values are hard to trace (are they Chinese? Cambodian? American?) has certainly helped me to open up all of my senses to the world around me. Even though I’ve never been to Thailand before this trip and had really only known one Thai person in my life, I feel a peculiar affinity for the culture in which I am living and that there is a lot that I am identifying with. In short, I feel quite at home here. But worry not, I will come home someday =).
Tuesday, December 12, 2006
Visit to a Fulbright Friend
By the generosity of one of the Fulbright Senior Scholars here in Bangkok, Dr. Bruce Svare, I was able to take a day trip out to a neighboring province. We took a rented van out to Nakhon Pathom province about an hour and a half west of Bangkok to see a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant (ETA) by the name of Sarah Sieloff. Sarah teaches at Pattarayan Wittaya High School in Nakhon Chai Sri amphur (an amphur is geographical area within a province) and is quite good at what she does! In addition to being a Fulbright ETA, she is also a Truman Scholar – the caliber of people who are attracted to the mission of the Fulbright is amazing, isn’t it? I feel so fortunate to have been given the opportunity to get to know people who are leaders in their field (as the Senior Scholars are) and young men and women whose talents have brought them quite far and have a ways to go yet in terms of their journeys in life.
Sarah teaches students from ages 13 to 18, if my memory serves me correctly – basically, the equivalent of US high school- aged kids. Our arrival at the school was fairly uneventful. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but we didn't get it. Hah hah. As we arrived in the middle of the school day, most of the students and teachers were still in classes. We wandered around a little bit and tried to call Sarah on her cell phone, but were unable to reach her. When we ran into a lady whom I thought looked teacher-ly, I used my broken Thai to ask where “Teacher Sarah” was. She then led us to the English Department’s office just a few doors down where we met up with Sarah, who was just wrapping up a few things she wanted to share with us. She gave us a brief tour of the office and the nicely air-conditioned computer room where she likes to teach. Apparently, it is easy to just up and move your classes if a particular room happens to be empty. I don’t remember seeing air-conditioners in the other classrooms, so you could probably understand why the computer room would be a nice place to be. Also, it happens to be one of the only "wired" rooms I saw, so Sarah is able to make use of technology to aid in her teaching. Given that she is teaching English to students whose native language is some form of Thai (there are geographical variations), sometimes actions are necessary to communicate an idea. Then it was time for lunch...
One of the interesting things I saw as we were wandering around the campus was how segregated the boys are from the girls...
We went to a place right down the street from the school that Sarah had found by trial and error during her months at the school. By now, I’m quite accustomed to eating at the type of establishment we sat down at. Sarah assured us that this place was excellent and I had every reason to believe her. It was a small stall set up in front of a home and the dining area was the family’s front yard. By this time, I had learned that just about every food stand has my favorite Thai dish (kraphao kai raat khao – stir-fried chicken with holy basil over rice), so that was exactly what I ordered. It was oh so wonderful. We talked for a little bit about what we wanted to do and who we were going to see that day, but mostly, we just caught up with each other about what we’ve all been up to and what we thought we might be doing for Christmas.
After lunch, we headed back to the school, where Sarah pointed out the assembly grounds where the students gather every morning at 8am. Here's a picture of the gathering space:
She then took us on a brief tour of the school, where we were able talk to some of the teachers through her =). Her Thai is much better than mine, so she asked all of the questions – thank goodness she was there! Much to my delight, I found that I understood quite a bit of what was being said in response to her questions. Yay, AUA and their Automatic Language Growth (ALG) method! We also saw some of the on campus housing. Apparently, it’s not uncommon for teachers to live on campus. Sarah happens to live with one of the top woman administrator at her school, so she is getting used to having a mom again after she had tasted the freedom of college life at a Florida university quite far from home (I think). Did I mention that Sarah is from Snohomish, WA? Small world, huh? Then it was time for her to teach.
Oh, by the way, here are Sarah’s words as to what she does on a day-to-day basis:
We do an opening ceremony every morning at 8am and it lasts until 8:25. All the students gather, sing some songs off-key, pray to the Buddha, and then sit and receive their daily dose of wisdom from one of the administrators, who is either berating them or giving them helpful advice and encouragement, I'm still not sure since the tones in Thai still throw me. I teach from 9:30 until 10:20 (Matthayom 6/1, the most advanced group of kids in the school, most of whom are university-bound). From 10:20 to 11:15 I'm with M5/3, where half of the class is deaf. They are accompanied by an interpreter who speaks decent English. From 11:15-12:10 I'm free. From 12:10 until 1:30 is lunch time. From 1:30-2:25 I don't teach. From 2:25-3:20 I'm teaching M3/5, which is a fun group of kids (like American 9th grade). The teacher supervising me actually supervises most of the time (a rarity) but her English is limited (when we speak, it's often in 1/2 Thai and 1/2 English) and she also teaches some Chinese. I get the feeling that Chinese interests her much more than English, but that English pays the bills…Thailand has passed a lot of educational reforms recently, and it's helpful to know what they're aiming for on paper vs. what the situation looks like on the ground.
This is Sarah in action -- I think she's a natural! You wouldn't believe that just a few months ago, she couldn't stand "kids" !!
What Sarah describes as discrepancy between what is on paper and what is on the ground is the very reason that I felt that it would be important to my research to go on this trip – this is of course, in addition to just being able to spend a day with my fellow Fulbrights and just get a sense of what they do on a daily basis. Let me just say that it is very different from what I do as my days are a lot less structured than theirs. Fortunately for me, I was also able to sit in on one of Bruce’s lectures at Chulalongkorn University before going to see Sarah’s school. The differences between the students at a public high school versus at one of Thailand’s most prestigious private universities weren’t all that great, actually. Although the students in Bruce’s class are senior college students, many of them exhibited the same types of behaviors as Sarah’s students. The main difference between the two classes is that in Bruce’s class, there were about 5 students who consistently raised their hands to either answer or ask questions. There was even one student who raised his hand and politely said that he simply disagreed with the conclusions of the author of one of their readings (Dr. Svare teaches in psychology, by the way). In Sarah’s class, many of the students seemed very nervous and looked as if they actively worked to stay unnoticed amongst the pack. For the most part, I noticed that the students in both classes were very hesitant to participate and volunteer. I’m thinking that much of it has to do with the language barrier. One young lady in Bruce’s class seemed very eager to ask and answer questions, but she had to do so through one of her classmates, who acted as an interpreter. Or maybe the meekness on the part of the students is simply a Thai thing. Perhaps on both occasions, it was because they were aware that visitors were in the classroom. I’ll have to defer to Bruce and Sarah on this matter, as they are the ones who stand in front of the classroom and teach.
After class, we were able to meet with one of the Assistant Directors of the school. I’m not sure how he would compare to the administrators in our high schools, but his title makes him sound like something of a vice principal. However, from talking to him, it sounded to me like his role was closer to that of a school principal. What the actual Director of the school does then, is still a mystery to me ~ Is it like a head of state and head of government thing? Perhaps Ajarn Wiichan, the Assistant Director, is one of the heads of government for the school and is responsible for making it tick. The term “Ajarn” by the way, isn’t part of his name, which is Wiichan (I hope I already mentioned that Thais don’t really use their last names very often, so I don’t even know what his last name is). Ajarn is a title of respect that’s also used to refer to university professors and also the teachers at this particular school. In contrast, the teachers at the AUA all go by the term “kruu,” which translates into “teacher.” As you might imagine then, there is a social and hierarchical distinction between kruu and ajarn and therefore, the level of respect that each title merits, respectively.
Here's a picture of me, Sarah, Bruce, one of the female teachers and the Assistant Director. I trust you don't need me to really go through who is whom...
Our meeting with him was actually quite interesting. From him, we learned that the Thai government spends a little over $30 per student annually through the equivalent of grade 9 and then about $55 for grades 10-12. Yes, you read correctly. Annually. I’d like to get the thoughts of American high school administrators on that tidbit of information. I remember from my days in student government when I was in high school that they were always complaining how little they had to work with in terms of funding. Actually, the numbers that they gave me were quite stunning, even to me and I’m familiar with some of these abysmal figures. I guess I had just forgotten. We learned that because of the very small amount of money that the central government shells out, the school systems require the parents of the students to fork out some money to help with the costs of running the school. This is quite a bit different from our public school systems where we have mandatory schooling up through grade 12 and it is truly free of cost for the parents (spare me the lecture about property taxes, yeah?). In contrast, the Thai system mandates schooling up through grade 9 and it’s certainly not free. They were baffled by the fact that a student who is an outsider can still go to school for free in our system – we were asked what happens if a student from NY were to move to WA and whether they would be expected to pay then. It just occurred to me now that the children of immigrants (legal or illegal) also go to school for free. Not sure that this would be the case for the Thailand, which also faces a problem with illegal immigration. One important difference I should mention as well is the level of centralization that the school systems are organized under – all public schools fall under the jurisdiction of the national Ministry of Education, which is of course, very different from our educational system, which is governed at the state level and further at the district level. At any rate, they’re trying to change this and make the schools more independent.
Finally (and one of the more exciting things I learned as a result of this trip), is that Sarah’s school is known as a “Dream School” and considered “Super Fast-Tech.” What makes them a Dream School is that they are participants in a program that bestows upon them a bright and shiny computer lab. With further questioning, I found out that the program is funded by grants from Krung Thai Bank, or what is more generally known as the Thai Military Bank, and administered by some branch of the Ministry of Education. According to the administrators, Krung Thai bank is a public corporation, but I’ve done some extra questioning and have heard that it is actually a state-owned enterprise (which would make sense given that it is the military bank). I also asked them what the motivation is for the bank to fund this program, which aims to provide access to technology to children in the public education system. Their answer was that given the bank’s success, they felt like they wanted to give back to the community. For those of you who are familiar with my research proposal and know that I’m very much interested on corporate giving and Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), you can see why I launched these series of questions at my generous hosts. I would have asked for much more clarification on the whole matter, but it was getting late and I didn’t want to keep them much longer – keep in mind that our meeting took place in the afternoon, when school was already out. And besides, our driver was waiting to take us back =).
So given the new information about the funding and nature of the Dream School project and what I saw earlier, I got to thinking. Sarah mentioned that one of the frustrations she’s had with the computer room is that although there are two rows of computers, she has only ever seen one row in use. Also, despite the fact that the computers are there, few of the teachers actually incorporate technology into their teaching. So my feeling is that it kind of defeats the purpose of providing the technology if it’s not going to be used to its full potential.
In a conversation I had with another person who has been quite indispensable in helping me to shape my research, Therese Caouette, I’ve come to consider a different point – who are programs such as the Dream Schools project really benefiting? Is it possible that it would instill a false sense of accomplishment? Obviously, the schools and students it would benefit most are the ones that have the sorts of resources and environment that would allow them to utilize the technology they are given to its full potential. The administrators of this program aren’t seeing the whole PROCESS through to its end. If they’re going to provide technology, they also need to ensure that the maximum benefits can be reaped from it. They need to provide training for the teachers in the Dream Schools so that they can serve as models and build upon the experience. It’s no use to anybody to spend what amounts to millions of dollars and have only half of it be beneficial to anybody.
If I take this experience further, I can see how the same problems can arise in any other type of social development programs or CSR initiatives for that matter. Throwing money at problems won’t fix them. Throwing computers at technology deficient populations won’t achieve anything. This situation just provides me with a whole host of reasons as to why economic growth formulas may have failed when economists tried to apply them to solving the problems of developing countries. If you say that given a certain amount of education, foreign direct investment, capital investment, etc should have X effects on GDP growth per capita, do you look at some of the variables that are harder to quantify? Economics, like any social science, has its limitations. There are things you just can’t express in numbers. Therese pointed out that when it comes to social development programs and related efforts, we have historically focused too much on product. We wonder what went wrong when our numbers don’t add up. Everything was applied in the correct quantities on the left side of the equation, how come the right side doesn’t come out right? I think the answer lies somewhere in the nebulous and unquantifiable areas that are bound to slip into the cracks where human beings are involved.
If you apply this to the Dream School project, maybe what I’m saying will make more sense. So Krung Thai Bank provides funding for so many computers for each beneficiary school in the hopes that it will encourage the training and development of a generation of students will be more computer literate. It hands it over to some office in the Ministry of Education to dole out and figure out which schools in which provinces will get the honor of being a Dream School. However, it doesn’t seem very apparent that there is much involvement from either Krung Thai Bank or the Ministry of Education in terms of seeing the project through to completion. How will they measure their success? Is there an identifiable goal that they are working towards? Who will be monitoring the program? Is there funding for the maintenance of the program? Is there an extra stipend to cover the cost of electricity that will be required to use the computers? Does anybody care? If the answers to some of these questions were a “yes,” somebody would be able to make sure that the second row of computers at Pattarayan Wittaya School were actually used. Somebody would come out and offer to give the teachers who wanted to learn various seminars on how to incorporate more technology into their curriculum. The grants would provide for teachers to have such training paid for. It would provide incentives for teachers in a system and society that is deeply entrenched in tradition to change. Somebody would be just as concerned about the processes as they are about the results. In short, the computers would be put to use instead of becoming outdated over time and being another phenomenal waste of money and source of confusion and disappointment for the architects of this supposedly well-hatched scheme to bring technology to the hoi polloi.
[Sigh]
Anyway, we ended the day by having dinner at a fabulous riverside restaurant where there were scary catfish the size of my legs swimming in the water. And people were feeding them! Shudder…no wonder they get so big! Here's a picture of it =). Regardless of the freaky fish, I shall have to go back there next time I'm in Nakhon Pathom ~
Sunday, December 03, 2006
Wat Phra Kaew and The Grand Palace
Before I begin the blog entry proper, I just wanted to share this lovely tidbit of trivia with you =).
Krungthep Mahanakhon, Amon Rattanakosin Mahintara Ayutthaya, Mahadilok phop Noppharat, Ratchathani Burirom, Udom Ratchaniwet Mahasathan, Amon Phiman Awatan Sathit, Sakkathatitya Witsanuk (Visnuk) Amprasit
The longest place name in the world roughly translates as: Great City of Angels, City of Immortals, Magnificent Jeweled City of the God Indra, Seat of the King of Ayutthaya, City of Gleaming Temples, City of the King's Most Excellent Palace and Dominions, Home of Vishnu and All the Gods -- it is the full name for Bangkok, in Thai ~ Try saying that five times fast!!
Today, I had the joy of visiting one of the most holy of temples in all of Thailand – Wat Phra Kaew – or, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. If you pick up any book on travel, art or culture for Thailand, you will invariably see some of Wat Phra Kaew’s glittering spires, gigantic golden chedi and iconic statues of mythical beings that form part of the national, cultural and religious narrative of Thailand.
For my part, I don’t feel as though words are enough to describe the awesome beauty and magnificence of the buildings that are present on the temple grounds. Anybody who has ever seen Wat Phra Kaew up close can attest to this. Better to show you with pictures since I've had complaints that sometimes, I get a little too wordy =). Take this as my way of accounting for the fact that there has been and will be long entries in the future with a lot less visual dazzling...
You might recall that one of the things I did back in November was go see the opera Ayodhya. The story line is based upon the Thai version of Hindu Ramayana – the Ramakien. As somebody who is deeply intrigued and fascinated by history and its links to literature, I was very excited to find that there are extensive murals depicting scenes from the Ramakien along the temple corridors. As geeky as this sounds, I was quite proud to be able to look at some of these scenes and know exactly what they are trying to show. One of the amazing things about the murals is that it is pretty much one continuous painting. There are no breaks in the story line and it is pretty linear in that the paintings start at the beginning and progress through the events of the story to the end. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the story line and want to read more, please check out this site and read about it on Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramayana. Here are some photos I snapped of the murals. On the other hand, If you are familiar with the Ramakien, you should easily be able to identify the second to last scene, which depicts Sita and her willingness to suffer trial by fire in order to prove her innocence. Also, the last photo shows the restoration of one section of the mural.
One of the things I found a little peculiar was the model of Angkor Wat that was located near the giant golden chedi at the center of the temple grounds. There were no signs that provided an explanation as to why there was an ancient Khmer temple complex present within Wat Phra Kaew. Frankly, I felt like it was a little silly and out of place and probably placed there for tourists as it looked completely out of place. The architectural style of the structures at the Angkor Wat complex are nothing like that of the traditional Thai style architecture of the buildings that were present within the Wat Phra Kaew complex. Anyway, I should say that at various times in the history of Southeast Asia, Angkor Wat had been under the control of the Thais, only to be recaptured by the Khmers several years later. At one point in history, the Khmers won a decisive victory over the Thais of the Ayutthaya period at a place called Siem Reap (that’s right, the modern day resort city just outside the Angkor complex). Siem Reap roughly translates into “the place of victory over the Siamese.” I think from that point on, the Khmers were able to maintain control over Angkor, the oftentimes disputed legacy of their ancestors. I still hear some Thais mumble something about how they should be the ones who have possession of Angkor. Apparently, the Thai history textbooks have something to say that might tell us why the model of Angkor can be found at Wat Phra Kaew, but since I can’t read Thai...I'll just have to keep on wondering why they model has been placed there.
The actual Wat Phra Kaew is the temple that houses the Emerald Buddha – it is one of the most revered images of the Buddha in all of Thailand and as such, photographs are not allowed. It was a hot day when I went to the temple complex, but since it is considered holy ground, I had to be “properly dressed.” This amounts to having to wear long pants and close-toed shoes in over 90-degree weather. All of this, just to get a glimpse of what was to me, yet another Buddha image. One little quirk that I found interesting was the fact that the figure has different “outfits” that correspond to the seasons. It has robes for the rainy season, one for the hot season and one for the cool season. So I took my shoes off and placed them in the area marked “for foreigners” (yes, there is an area for shoes belonging to Thais, don’t ask me why, I don’t know…). Aware of the rule against taking photographs, I put my camera down but conveniently forgot to turn it off. And then I accidentally pushed the button that just happened to record an image of this figure. I am so ashamed of myself that I cannot bear to post it for all to see and so you will just have to wait until I get home to see it (translation: I don’t want to have the tourist police knock on my door and confiscate my contraband photo of the Emerald Buddha).
This is a photo of what I've previously described as "making merit." You buy gold foil and affix it to an image of the Buddha. It looks like this particular image is about merited out!
Adjacent to Wat Phra Kaew is the Grand Palace. At one point in time, it was inhabited by the royal family, but nowadays, it is used mostly in a ceremonial capacity and is used as a gathering space for official state business and to host visiting royals and officials from other countries. It was a stately building, but not much when compared to the temples nearby. This is a picture of me in front of it followed by a picture of me with a guard!
I should note that like most places of interest in Thailand, there is a foreigner excise tax to visit Wat Phra Kaew (aka admission fee) that is waived for Thai citizens. Yeah. Try to have that be the case for tourists to visit the Statue of Liberty, the Space Needle or the Peace Arch. Wouldn’t it be nice if we could all ride to the top of the Space Needle for free?? Thankfully, the fee is nothing that will put too big a dent in your visit Thailand funds as it amounts to 250 baht, which is about $8.00.
Monday, November 27, 2006
Fulbright Mid-Grant Meeting
This past Wednesday and Thursday, all of the Fulbrighters in Thailand descended upon Bangkok where most of us enthusiastically met one another for the mid-grant meeting. It’s deceptive, really, that its called “mid-grant” because many of us have only been here several weeks and some of us are in the last couple of months of our grants. Still, it was quite interesting to meet everybody, figure out where they’re at in their grants and learn about some of their victories and trials. It’s also a great deal of fun to learn about their projects and even make a few good contacts who will aid in completing my own! The other nice thing was that I got to meet other people my age! Right now, we have about 4 senior Fulbright scholars, 4 junior researchers like myself, 2-3 DDRA folks (shrug), and 9 English Teaching Assistants. I spent most of my time getting to know the ETAs because many of the senior scholars didn’t seem too interested in talking to anybody but each other, hah hah. Still, I was able to capture the attention of a couple whom I predict will be a great help in putting me in touch with some excellent contacts at various leading and prestigious Thai universities. On Wednesday, I talked so much that I lost my voice! You have to remember that I have nobody to talk to when I’m hanging out at home and that I really don’t do that much talking in class (we are encouraged to respond in English or whatever language we feel comfortable, just not Thai). Anyway, there was already something going on in my sinuses and talking as much as I did turned into full-blown laryngitis!
It was a full day of “work” talk before we were done. Later that night, I got together with a bunch of the ETAs and grabbed some dinner at an over-priced food court, the likes of which I’ve already told you about =). All of them have been assigned to schools that are pretty much rural or small suburbs in the provinces where each meal costs them about 12 baht, or about .35, so they felt like some splurging was in order. So we all went out for a fancy meal that ended up costing me about $8. Yes, that’s splurging! Really now, I could feed myself for three days on that amount of money! Here's a picture of us for your amusement:
After dinner, we headed out to live jazz bar called “Saxophone” in a part of BKK that I haven’t really been to. It’s sort of hidden away from the main street, so even if I had been to what is known as the Victory Monument, I probably wouldn’t see it. Don’t ask me what the monument commemorates, I have no clue – this coming from the guy who wrote his undergraduate “thesis” on the role of monuments, memorials and historical sites with regards to the public reinforcement of the collective memory of the past! Hah hah. Here's a picture of Elizabeth -- she's located in one of the province near Chiang Mai in the north:
This is the sign for the men's room. If you find it a little bit hard to read, it says "man toilet." I found it quite funny:
The ETAs had spent a month in BKK immediately prior to my own arrival, so they had had some time to see BKK before they were shipped off to their various assignments. It’s a good thing too, since I really had a great time at Saxophone. It was really quite amusing for them because as usual, being a male Asian, the cocktail servers all addressed me in Thai and asked me to be the spokesman for the group (they’re all Caucasian looking, FARANG as they’re known in Thailand). It’s ironic because most of the ETAs have a better grip on Thai than I do given the fact that where they live, an English speaking Thai is harder to come by than in BKK. Even though I generally understood the simple questions they were asking me, I didn’t know quite how to respond, so I deferred to the others in my group – besides they needed to order their own drinks anyway =). The funny thing was that even after they answered back in Thai, the servers continued to ask me the usual round of follow-up questions! I felt quite sheepish and it spurred within me a renewed sense of commitment to learning my Thai as quickly as possible. Hopefully, I can get through the first two hours before the school closes for three weeks in December for winter break…
On Thursday, we went to what I think is the National Rose Garden in the nearby province of Nakhorn Phanom. I learned that one of the ETAs is based quite near there, so I shall have to go visit! She also agreed to let me sit in on her classes and see her school so that I could get a sense of the state of public education in Thailand. I plan on visiting many of the others and seeing their schools as well! Hopefully, I can incorporate my observations into my research and make some contacts along the way to keep in touch with once they all finish their assignments at the end of March.
Whoopdy do, you all say. Rose Garden, how much fun could that possibly be for anybody other than me?? Well, the Thais know all about turning a good thing into a better thing and capitalizing on their resources. Today, the garden features more than just the original gardens. They have traditional Thai “activities” such as bamboo leaf weaving, flower garland making, fruit and vegetable carving, Thai pottery, classical music and dance, a silkworm and silk-weaving workshop, martial arts, Thai cooking classes and even a miniature rice paddy! I was able to check out quite a few of these little workshops and had quite a bit of fun bumbling around pretending I don’t speak a lick of Thai (which wasn’t that hard to do given how little I actually do understand!). We capped off the day with an elephant show and traditional Thai village…cabaret of sorts that featured everything from traditional musical instruments, martial arts, dance and even a traditional Thai wedding! In fact, here's a picture of me with the happy couple:
This is a picture of my first attempt at carving a piece of squash...try guessing which one of was carved by the professional, hah hah!
This is me at the garland making station:
Here I am trying my hand at making some clay pottery...not too bad for a first attempt, what do you say?
Also, I went to go visit the silk-making exhibit, check out some of these pictures! The rounded yellow things are silkwork cocoons. The more golden-colored ones are are ready to be processed and unravelled whereas the paler ones are being allowed to continue developing. As you can imagine, it would be a terrible way to meet your end as a silkworm. Death by boiling!
Anyway, we ended the fun and eventful day with Thanksgiving dinner as a group at the home of the Educational and Cultural Affairs officer at the US Embassy here in BKK. Let me just say that they are quite well taken care of by the US Department of State! Not only do they get their housing paid for, but they still earn US level government incomes and have quite enough time and resources to travel in the regions of their assignments. Apparently, Fulbrights are prime candidates to sit for the written and oral examinations one has to pass to become a foreign-service officer with the USDOS – I must say that I’m definitely considering it at the moment! Although having a family makes it a little bit tougher when it comes to the periodic rotation of assignments, it seems they get quite a bit of assistance with things like schools for the children and stuff for the spouse of the FSO to do. The point is that all of you should worry not for me as I still had my turkey (and stuffing too) this year ~
It was a full day of “work” talk before we were done. Later that night, I got together with a bunch of the ETAs and grabbed some dinner at an over-priced food court, the likes of which I’ve already told you about =). All of them have been assigned to schools that are pretty much rural or small suburbs in the provinces where each meal costs them about 12 baht, or about .35, so they felt like some splurging was in order. So we all went out for a fancy meal that ended up costing me about $8. Yes, that’s splurging! Really now, I could feed myself for three days on that amount of money! Here's a picture of us for your amusement:
After dinner, we headed out to live jazz bar called “Saxophone” in a part of BKK that I haven’t really been to. It’s sort of hidden away from the main street, so even if I had been to what is known as the Victory Monument, I probably wouldn’t see it. Don’t ask me what the monument commemorates, I have no clue – this coming from the guy who wrote his undergraduate “thesis” on the role of monuments, memorials and historical sites with regards to the public reinforcement of the collective memory of the past! Hah hah. Here's a picture of Elizabeth -- she's located in one of the province near Chiang Mai in the north:
This is the sign for the men's room. If you find it a little bit hard to read, it says "man toilet." I found it quite funny:
The ETAs had spent a month in BKK immediately prior to my own arrival, so they had had some time to see BKK before they were shipped off to their various assignments. It’s a good thing too, since I really had a great time at Saxophone. It was really quite amusing for them because as usual, being a male Asian, the cocktail servers all addressed me in Thai and asked me to be the spokesman for the group (they’re all Caucasian looking, FARANG as they’re known in Thailand). It’s ironic because most of the ETAs have a better grip on Thai than I do given the fact that where they live, an English speaking Thai is harder to come by than in BKK. Even though I generally understood the simple questions they were asking me, I didn’t know quite how to respond, so I deferred to the others in my group – besides they needed to order their own drinks anyway =). The funny thing was that even after they answered back in Thai, the servers continued to ask me the usual round of follow-up questions! I felt quite sheepish and it spurred within me a renewed sense of commitment to learning my Thai as quickly as possible. Hopefully, I can get through the first two hours before the school closes for three weeks in December for winter break…
On Thursday, we went to what I think is the National Rose Garden in the nearby province of Nakhorn Phanom. I learned that one of the ETAs is based quite near there, so I shall have to go visit! She also agreed to let me sit in on her classes and see her school so that I could get a sense of the state of public education in Thailand. I plan on visiting many of the others and seeing their schools as well! Hopefully, I can incorporate my observations into my research and make some contacts along the way to keep in touch with once they all finish their assignments at the end of March.
Whoopdy do, you all say. Rose Garden, how much fun could that possibly be for anybody other than me?? Well, the Thais know all about turning a good thing into a better thing and capitalizing on their resources. Today, the garden features more than just the original gardens. They have traditional Thai “activities” such as bamboo leaf weaving, flower garland making, fruit and vegetable carving, Thai pottery, classical music and dance, a silkworm and silk-weaving workshop, martial arts, Thai cooking classes and even a miniature rice paddy! I was able to check out quite a few of these little workshops and had quite a bit of fun bumbling around pretending I don’t speak a lick of Thai (which wasn’t that hard to do given how little I actually do understand!). We capped off the day with an elephant show and traditional Thai village…cabaret of sorts that featured everything from traditional musical instruments, martial arts, dance and even a traditional Thai wedding! In fact, here's a picture of me with the happy couple:
This is a picture of my first attempt at carving a piece of squash...try guessing which one of was carved by the professional, hah hah!
This is me at the garland making station:
Here I am trying my hand at making some clay pottery...not too bad for a first attempt, what do you say?
Also, I went to go visit the silk-making exhibit, check out some of these pictures! The rounded yellow things are silkwork cocoons. The more golden-colored ones are are ready to be processed and unravelled whereas the paler ones are being allowed to continue developing. As you can imagine, it would be a terrible way to meet your end as a silkworm. Death by boiling!
Anyway, we ended the fun and eventful day with Thanksgiving dinner as a group at the home of the Educational and Cultural Affairs officer at the US Embassy here in BKK. Let me just say that they are quite well taken care of by the US Department of State! Not only do they get their housing paid for, but they still earn US level government incomes and have quite enough time and resources to travel in the regions of their assignments. Apparently, Fulbrights are prime candidates to sit for the written and oral examinations one has to pass to become a foreign-service officer with the USDOS – I must say that I’m definitely considering it at the moment! Although having a family makes it a little bit tougher when it comes to the periodic rotation of assignments, it seems they get quite a bit of assistance with things like schools for the children and stuff for the spouse of the FSO to do. The point is that all of you should worry not for me as I still had my turkey (and stuffing too) this year ~
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